You’re seeing error code 2 when using Foobar to convert a track to Apple Lossless.
You probably installed the version of iTunes from the Microsoft Store.
Uninstall the Microsoft Store version. Download and install iTunes from apple.com/itunes.
Read my MateBook X Pro teardown here.
WORK IN PROGRESS
I replaced the CPU thermal paste with Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut and the GPU thermal pad with 0.5mm Fujipoly XR-m. These should give me more thermal headroom, but I didn’t check the temperatures in stock form beforehand, so I have no comparison.
The MateBook X Pro’s CPU throttles to ~10W under sustained load. Intel XTU and HWiNFO report that this is Power Limit throttling, specifically PL1, which is set to 10W by default.
I followed this guide to disable DPTF in Windows, and now the package TDP can stay at 30W as long as Turbo Boost Power Max in XTU is set to 30 or above.
With the Power Limit unlocked, XTU’s CPU stress test caused the laptop to shut off. The CPU at that time was 92°C, which leads me to believe that something else, such as a MOSFET, is overheating.
I was on a -100mV undervolt, so I reverted to normal voltage but it shut off even quicker. Therefore, CPU instability is probably not the cause either.
I gave the MX150 a Base Clock Offset of +200MHz and a Memory Clock Offset of +400MHz. They have been stable for me.
If your Huawei MateBook X Pro’s touchpad is loose and rattles when you tap on it, try sticking a piece of paper between the touchpad and the frame. You might not need to remove the battery like I did, but if you do, the heatsink plate has to come off first, which is a hassle. You do NOT need to take out the touchpad itself to perform this mod.
Must-know for disassembly: unlike the MateBook X, there are no screws under the rubber feet. Instead, there are many plastic tabs that hold the back plate firm. Unscrew the screws and use a guitar pick. Feel and locate the tabs, then lift up. There is one more clip in the middle. It’s spring-loaded, so just pull the whole plate evenly.
Printed by my Wanhao i3 using PLA. The nozzle is 0.4mm but I made it pretend to be 0.3mm in Cura to get the spline teeth detail.
After a year of listening to my HE400i with the previous equalizer settings I made, I decided to use a less aggressive version that only corrects the obnoxious treble peaks and compensates for the sub-bass deficiency.
Measurements and Correction
As always, the greatest appreciation goes to Solderdude at diyaudioheaven.wordpress.com. Just like last time, the measurements come straight from Solderdude’s home-made measuring rid, which I find exceedingly accurate. Check out his measurement methodology here and join the conversation at the DIYAH forum.
If you don’t like how the PNGOUT command cannot export images bigger than your screen resolution, then use this method:
- Press Ctrl-P.
- Change the Printer/plotter to PublishToWeb PNG.pc3.
- Click Properties.
Updating Logitech Options to version 6.70.1055 (Aug 31) made smooth scrolling in Windows 10 apps (such as Edge) extremely unresponsive. Version 6.70.1197 (Sep 14) does not address this issue.
If you have the same problem, please help raise awareness on the Logitech Community thread.
Meanwhile, you can uninstall the new version and reinstall version 6.62.210 from Logitech’s website: https://download01.logi.com/web/ftp/pub/techsupport/options/Options_6.62.210.exe
My Wanhao i3 (Monoprice Maker Select V2) has the Flexion Extruder upgrade, but I still wanted more extruder torque (trouble pushing through 0.3mm nozzle), so I changed the extruder motor to a longer 17HM15-0904S stepper motor. Why would I use a stepper motor with a step angle of 0.9 degrees as the extruder? I simply had it lying around waiting to be used for an ongoing custom printer project.