You try to open Precision X1, but it closes itself after the splash screen, and the main window won’t open at all.
Do you have multiple GPUs in your system? Graphics cards of different models? eGPU? Ever since version 0.3.1, Precision X1 breaks in face of GPU diversity.
Go into Device Manager and disable the other GPU you’re not currently using. In this case, it was my laptop’s own MX250.
If you’re connecting your laptop to a TV and the black in the image is gray instead, your laptop is not outputting the full 8-bit-per-channel color range. Instead of sending values between 0 and 255, it’s sending 15-255. You could compensate for this in some TVs’ settings, but you’d be losing color definition.
Intel defaults to 15-255. There is a setting for this in the Intel Graphics Control Panel (In Video > Color Enhancement), but it doesn’t seem to take any effect… unless you do the following:
- Make sure Input Range is set to ‘Full Range‘.
- Now go back to the main menu and into the Display page.
- In the Color Settings section, Enable ‘YCbCr’.
- Wait for several seconds for the setting to revert itself. You should now be getting full 0-255 color range.
You have to do this every time you restart the computer or reconnect the TV.
My new Twitter account is @radbling. Follow me for more behind-the-scenes, in-progress updates, and discussions!
I will outline what Huawei has and has not fixed in the 2019 MateBook X Pro compared to the 2018 model. You can find the more obvious talking points on The Verge and other normie sites, but here are the small engineering changes that I noticed during my teardown and testing.
Screenshot from my teardown https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Sxf_bU6OZXE&t=11974s
- Huawei has perforated the regions of the heatsink above the CPU VRM. Whereas 2018’s VRM would overheat and cause the laptop to abruptly shut down when the CPU is pushed to around 15W, 2019’s VRM can supply over 30W continuously just fine. The CPU starts thermal throttling way before the VRM has any problem keeping up. I did manage to find the VRM’s limit though: with a fan blowing at the laptop’s bottom, the VRM bumps into a hardware current limit when the CPU reaches about 48W. That’s the maximum power the VRM is designed for.
These are the tweaks I use every time I set up a Windows laptop, to make it faster, more power-efficient, and less annoying. Some of these are pretty standard and well known; others are more advanced and thorough.
Fresh Windows Installation
Skip manufacturer bloatware altogether and start with a clean slate. YOU decide what OEM packages you want to install back.
- Back up your files. If your laptop comes with a display calibration profile (like Razer Blade), then find the ICC file in Windows\system32\spool\drivers\color and back it up to reinstall it later.
- Use the Windows Media Creation Tool to make an installation USB drive.
- If you want features like Group Policy Editor (helpful for some tweaks below), you'll want to install the Pro version instead. In this case, download this ei.cfg file (right click, save link as) and put it in the \Sources folder of the created install disk. Putting this config file there enables the option to choose a different Windows edition. You'll need a license for Windows 10 Pro.
- Boot into the install drive using the Boot Menu or Settings/Update & Security/Recovery/Advanced Startup.
- Go through the installer. While doing so, make sure you choose the "Custom" option instead of "Upgrade", and delete all the partitions. Choose to install Windows in the resulting unallocated space—it will set up the partitions for you.
- Once you've booted into the system, wait for Windows Update to automatically install drivers.
Reduce Startup Programs
Make Windows start up faster by disallowing unnecessary programs to automatically launch.
- Open Task Manager (you can press Ctrl+Shift+Esc).
- Go to the Startup tab and disable any programs you don't need to automatically self-launch every time you turn on the computer.
- You can also do the same thing for many programs like Spotify and Skype from within the application's own settings page.
Disable Intel's Cringe-worthy Graphics Features
Does the brightness or color of your display change by itself from time to time? Intel's "image enhancement" is probably messing with you. All these "enhancements" do is make the image inconsistent and worse.
- Open Intel Graphics Control Panel by searching "graphics" in the Start Menu.
- Go to the Video section.
- In "Color Enhancement", disable Total Color Correction.
- In "Image Enhancement", disable Skin Tone Enhancement, Contrast Enhancement, and Film Mode Detection. All of these mess up the color content.
- Go back to the Power section.
- Disable Extended Battery Life for Gaming to get maximum frame rates.
- Disable Display Power Saving Technology. This one messes with your display brightness. Make sure you set this for both "On Battery" and "Plugged In" and all power plans.
- A Windows version update may reset the Power settings, so set them again if that happens.
Disable Panel Self-Refresh
You can prevent Windows from automatically installing or updating a specific device or driver using the “Prevent installation of devices that match any of these device IDs” Group Policy, but what if you’re using Windows 10 Home and don’t have Group Policy Editor? You can do the same thing using Registry Editor.
- For convenience, we can edit this template REG file to our needs and install it, instead of manually creating each registry in Registry Editor.
- Once you’ve downloaded the REG file, right click on it and Edit. We’re going to replace the Device ID in the template with the correct Device ID of your device.
This is the AutoHotkey script I use to type common special characters, including Spanish accented letters, superscripts, math and science symbols. I’ve also included shortcuts to simulate the media control keys.
You can copy and paste the script, or download a precompiled version that doesn’t require AutoHotkey to run.
You can put it in %appdata%\Microsoft\Windows\Start Menu\Programs\Startup to have it automatically run at Windows startup.
(‘!’ means Alt, ‘+’ means Shift, ‘^’ means Control, so ‘!a’ means pressing ‘Alt’ and ‘A’ together.)
Contrary to what Xfinity Mobile officially declares, you actually can bring your own Android phone (BYOD) to Xfinity Mobile. You just need an iPhone that you or a friend have laying around unused.
- Bring the spare iPhone to the Xfinity Store and tell them that’s the phone you’ll be using.
- If you’re making the switch online, enter the iPhone’s IMEI on the webpage.
- After the initial activation, take the SIM card out of the iPhone and insert it into your Android.
Xfinity does not have anything in place to actively block your ‘unapproved’ Android from accessing their network. Your or your friend’s iPhone will remain on their records as associated with your phone number, but you are able to use your Xfinity SIM card in any compatible phone.
I have been using my Galaxy S8+ (which I originally got from Sprint) this way without any problems. However, this may not work for your particular phone. OnePlus on Xfinity can’t send or receive SMS. But if Xfinity sells a model similar to your phone, it will probably work.
Did this work for you? Leave a comment.
Feb 24 MWC Update: turns out this is the all-new MateBook 14.
A 2019 successor to the Huawei MateBook X Pro is coming, and it’s looking good — at least in these documents from the U.S. Federal Communications Commission.
The model in question is the KLV-WX9, codename ‘Kelvin’. See the original label document here. Read more about MateBook model codenames here.
At first glance, the updated MateBook X Pro looks very similar to the MateBook 13’s bottom, with a wide air intake for a dual-fan cooling system. However, you can see that this is a more premium laptop: it has a machined aluminum unibody just like the current X Pro, while the MateBook 13’s body is composed of multiple, cheaper, mostly two-dimensional stamped aluminum sheets.
Measuring the body drawing to-scale, the new MateBook appears to be roughly 4mm wider and 7mm taller. So, we may be getting the webcam on the top bezel, or a slightly bigger (14″?) screen, or thicker bezels in exchange for more internal space, or none of the above — Huawei’s drawing may just be distorted.
If your CPU frequency is being reduced under load, even at low temperatures, you’re probably experiencing power throttling. Most of the time, you can use ThrottleStop to raise or disable the power limits, but sometimes, you need to disable Intel’s Dynamic Platform and Thermal Framework, which tries to set the power limit dynamically on you behalf.
Your laptop may have an option to disable DPTF in the BIOS menu. If not:
- Install NoDPTF.reg to prevent Windows from automatically reinstalling DPTF.
- In Device Manager, find all the devices whose names start with “Intel(R) Dynamic Platform and Thermal Framework”. They may be in the “System devices” list. Right click on each and “Uninstall device”. Check “Delete the driver software for this device” whenever available.
- Now you can use ThrottleStop or Intel XTU to raise the power limits. For instructions on that, you can refer to the “Raise Power & Current Limits” of this mod guide.
Warning: if your computer can’t cool its CPU VRM properly, then raising the power limits may cause it to suddenly shut down. If that’s the case, you need to give the VRM more cooling like I did here.
If any DPTF devices are still present, please tell me their hardware IDs in the comments. (To check hardware ID: right click on the device, Properties, Details, select “Hardware Ids” in the drop-down menu.)
A lot of laptops have further Power Limits controlled by the EC, which is much harder to change.
These laptops include:
- Lenovo Yoga 720-15IKB
- Razer Blade Stealth (2019)
In Registry Editor, delete HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SOFTWARE\Policies\Microsoft\Windows\DeviceInstall\Restrictions.