Here’s how you can extract a PNG image from a PDF in Acrobat DC while preserving its transparency.
- Go into edit mode.
Equalizer APO is not taking any effect in Windows 10.
In recent versions of Windows 10, UWP apps like “Movies & TV” may not get processed by Equalizer APO even with this fix.
The “How do you want to open this file” prompt keeps popping up even though you specified the program to open your AHK files.
You’re probably using AutoHotkey v2.
The bottom of the Huawei MateBook X Pro makes a creaking or squeaking noise when you lift the laptop by a bottom corner.
The noise is not caused by the laptop’s body but by the crinkling of the battery’s wrapping. You are exerting pressure on the battery area, slightly bending the bottom panel and pressing the battery.
When setting up Windows Hello, you can’t get past the first prompt to touch the fingerprint sensor.
May 26, 2020 update: MXPro_stock.txt has been updated with better measurements and EQ techniques! Go download it again in the “Frequency Response Correction” section.
The MateBook X Pro has some of the best speakers on any ultrabook. Unlike most laptops, it has 4 speakers instead of 2: there are a pair of up-facing tweeters under the speaker grill and a pair of down-facing woofers on the laptop’s bottom corners. The crisp up-firing tweeters greatly enhance soundstage and imaging. Nevertheless, these speakers are not perfect, and here’s some ways we can improve them.
You’re seeing error code 2 when using Foobar to convert a track to Apple Lossless.
You probably installed the version of iTunes from the Microsoft Store.
Uninstall the Microsoft Store version. Download and install iTunes from apple.com/itunes.
Latest video, experimental sequel to the MXP mods:
The Huawei MateBook X Pro's quad-core 8550u (8565u in 2019 model) CPU has tremendous potential that is held back by the its weak cooling system. Here are some steps you can take to unlock more performance from the laptop by removing thermal and power limitations (commonly known as throttling). This project is a work-in-progress, so take my advice with a grain of salt and check back often to see new developments. I encourage the experienced or adventurous to try their own methods as well.
Disclaimer: You are about to void your warranty. You are liable for any damage you inflict upon your device. While these modifications are not inherently dangerous, they may still damage your laptop, especially if you mess something up. So, read carefully.
These steps are arranged not by difficulty or effectiveness but in the order that requires the least time, effort, and risk. Read through all the steps before you begin to get a gist of what we're doing. If you choose to omit some steps, don't raise your power limit so much.
MXP already has a pyrolytic graphite sheet (PGS) underneath the keyboard, but it doesn't extend beyond the motherboard area. The keyboard could be 66°C even when the palmrest is 35°C. That's a lot of thermal mass and surface area usable for cooling going to waste.
Benefits: Spreads the heat across the laptop's body and reduces the hot spot on the keyboard.
I used 3 smaller sheets of Panasonic PGS in the video above. The more cost-efficient graphite sheet that I provide now comes in a single sheet big enough for the whole laptop.
Benefits: Reduces the high-pitched whistle from the fan motor's coils. When done correctly, this mod does not slow down the fan or make it less effective, only quieter.
Warning: this mod is challenging to do right and risks breaking your fan.
A good amount of heat conducts to the motherboard backside, which means we can try to transfer it out to cool the entire thing.
The gray thermal pads that you see in some photos/videos here are T-Global TGX that I used to recommend. I later decided that they were unnecessary, especially considering the cost. I now recommended using Arctic thermal pads, which are extremely soft (25 Shore 00) and the most thermally conductive (6W/mK) for that softness level. See what sizes you need and links in the Shopping Cart tab.
Benefits: Allows the GPU to sustain about 300MHz higher frequency. The MX150 thermal-throttles above 80°C. This mod helped me shave 15°C off the GPU temperature, so now the GPU bottleneck is never temperature but only the 10W power limit of the MX150 1D12 variant.
To identify the overheating VRM components, I removed the laptop's heatsink and put a small heatsink block on the CPU to expose the surrounding VRM for thermal imagery. These components get very hot even when the CPU is under little load.
Benefits: Prevents the CPU power-delivery components from overheating and causing the laptop to shut down when we lift power limits in the subsequent steps.
Your cutouts may be different depending on the model year of your MXP.
Benefits: Eliminates SSD throttling. This increased my PassMark Disk Mark score from 18,159 to 26,826.
Benefits: The CPU's heat will dissipate to the heatsink at a higher rate, so it will run cooler. This is crucial for reducing thermal throttling in the later steps.
Benefits: Turns the fan casing into a small but efficient heatsink, as the fan blades are right there to scoop away the heat. This increases the cooling capacity by about 8W.
Benefits: Reduces the whistling wind noise and improves airflow.
Benefits: Allows the CPU to boost with more power and for longer (indefinitely!).
A sensible Power Limit is better than letting the CPU thermal throttle because the 2018 X Pro's thermal throttling has a dumb control algorithm and makes the CPU frequency fluctuate too much, resulting in lower average frequency. For the 2019 X Pro, you can just set a really high power limit and let thermal throttling handle it, because the throttling algorithm is much better on that one.
The materials for the complete project total around 80USD. Shipping costs will vary.
I used to point readers toward DigiKey until I started importing these myself to make them available for much less. If you don't feel comfortable buying from me on eBay, then here are alternatives for graphite sheet (need 3 because smaller) and heat pipes, which I used to recommend. Keep in mind that the eBay heat pipes have a width advantage.
Disclaimer: I do get a small kickback through these Amazon affiliate links. Thank you for using them to support my work.
No. The ones I sell have an insulation layer on both sides.
No, incorrect thickness would prevent the pad from making proper contact, making it ineffective.
Notice we are omitting keyboard-side thermal pads, which would conduct more heat to the chassis.
I replaced the CPU thermal paste with Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut and the GPU thermal pad with 0.5mm Fujipoly XR-m. These should give me more thermal headroom, but I didn't check the temperatures in stock form beforehand, so I have no comparison.
The MateBook X Pro's CPU throttles to ~10W under sustained load. Intel XTU and HWiNFO report that this is Power Limit throttling, specifically PL1, which is set to 10W by default.
I followed this guide to disable DPTF in Windows, and now the package TDP can stay at 30W as long as Turbo Boost Power Max in XTU is set to 30 or above.
With the Power Limit unlocked, XTU's CPU stress test caused the laptop to shut off. The CPU at that time was 92°C, which leads me to believe that something else, such as a MOSFET, is overheating.
I was on a -100mV undervolt, so I reverted to normal voltage but it shut off even quicker. Therefore, CPU instability is probably not the cause either.
I gave the MX150 a Base Clock Offset of +200MHz and a Memory Clock Offset of +400MHz. They have been stable for me.
I removed the heatsink, put a little heatsink on the CPU, ran a stress test and measured the temperatures of the components surrounding the CPU. The inductors, MOSFETs, and resistors right above the CPU are the hottest, exceeding 60°C.
I peeled off the plastic insulator film on the keyboard side of the motherboard and put thermal pads on the CPU area to cool the aforementioned components. I used 0.5mm on the metal bracket and 1mm everywhere else. I want their heat to go to the keyboard-area unibody. It won't burn my hands because the heat doesn't transfer to the keys much.
I am no longer using Fujipoly XR-m thermal pads because their tendency to dry makes me worry that their conductivity might degrade over time. Instead, I switched to Thermal Grizzly Minus Pad 8 across the board. Its theoretical thermal conductivity is lower, but its softness allows it to possibly work better in practice.
I also taped up the gaps along the hot air exhaust passage to make sure hot air doesn't escape back into the laptop.
I took off the MX150 core overclock to let GPU Boost 3.0 do its own thing.
I suspect that recent BIOS updates have reduced CPU power behavior. The package power hasn't been boosting beyond 20W.
Breakthrough! I am now able to sustain well over 20W indefinitely by combining XTU and ThrottleStop. XTU has the ability to set PL1 and PL2 to unlimited, which I haven't been able to replicate in ThrottleStop. Meanwhile, ThrottleStop can disable Speed Shift and enforce a high Multiplier. I think both programs have a apply-once behavior rather than regularly checking, so they don't seem with fight with each other. This has completely counteracted any possible behavior changes done by the BIOS update.
This method of disabling Intel DPTF no longer works for me, but I found a new method and have updated the guide accordingly.
I found why the MXPro charges slowly, doesn't charge, or even discharges under high load. The charging rate is thermal throttling. The inductor and its surrounding transistors are thermal-padded to the heatsink, but that doesn't seem to be enough.
It cost me several hundred dollars (thermal camera, materials etc.) and countless hours to figure this out, so please consider donating to support this project!
If you have a question, please leave a comment instead of emailing me, so that everyone can see the answer. Thanks!
Your Huawei MateBook X Pro’s touchpad (or trackpad) feels loose, and it rattles or wobbles up and down when you tap on it. You are able to depress the touchpad surface without it actually clicking. In other words, there is play or slack in the touchpad.
Simply insert a piece of paper under each of these metal tabs. If you need help opening the bottom lid, watch the video below.
Thanks to everyone in the MateBook community who helped these solutions evolve! (See the original, primitive touchpad fix here.)
You can also hammer down the tabs to the right tolerance. This method gives you the most control over how tight you want the touchpad to be, and the most consistency of feel.
The ID card is to support the touchpad from underneath, or else you'd just be hammering the chassis.
Practically all MateBook X Pros have a loose touchpad. 62% of users in this survey reported having this problem. I believe the other 38% simply did not notice it or see it as a problem, since it is a subjective issue.
The touchpad’s looseness is caused by the excessive clearance between the touchpad and the chassis. During assembly, the touchpad is slotted into the chassis and a machine presses down the two metal tabs to secure it in place. The touchpad’s “upper limit” of travel is where the tabs touch the chassis. Its “lower limit” is where the tactile switch bottoms out. A perfectly tight touchpad actuation requires the upper limit to coincide with the tactile switch’s resting/undepressed/up position, so that there is no slack. However, because the metal tabs are not pressed in far enough, they leave a gap where the touchpad can travel down without yet actuating the tactile switch.
If you don’t like how the PNGOUT command cannot export images bigger than your screen resolution, then use this method: