The Huawei MateBook X Pro’s quad-core 8550u (8565u in 2019 model) CPU has tremendous potential that is held back by the its weak cooling system. Here are some steps you can take to unlock more performance from the laptop by removing thermal and power limitations (commonly known as throttling). This project is a work-in-progress, so take my advice with a grain of salt and check back often to see new developments. I encourage the experienced or adventurous to try their own methods as well.
Little to no CPU throttling whereas it normally power-throttles massively
No more GPU throttling
Be able to maintain much higher CPU frequency under sustained load
Sustained CPU power increased from ~14W to ~36W
25% to 30% performance increase in real-world applications
Disclaimer: You are about to void your warranty. You are liable for any damage you inflict upon your device. While these modifications are not inherently dangerous, they may still damage your laptop, especially if you mess something up. So, read carefully.
These steps are arranged not by difficulty or effectiveness but in the order that requires the least time, effort, and risk. Read through all the steps before you begin to get a gist of what we’re doing. If you choose to omit some steps, don’t raise your power limit so much.
MXP already has a pyrolytic graphite sheet (PGS) underneath the keyboard, but it doesn’t extend beyond the motherboard area. The keyboard could be 66°C even when the palmrest is 35°C. That’s a lot of thermal mass and surface area usable for cooling going to waste.
Benefits: Spreads the heat across the laptop’s body and reduces the hot spot on the keyboard.
See how my graphite sheets span the entire area from top to bottom.
Remove the bottom lid and heatsink.
Disconnect and remove the battery and fan.
Remove the SSD, motherboard, USB-A daughterboard, and LCD controller.
Peel away the soft support (black square) under the SSD.
Cut the graphite sheet into the right shape.
Print my 1:1 scan of the laptop case to use as a cutting stencil. It has been flipped horizontally so that you can temporarily stick the smooth side of the graphite sheets to the back side and cut. Make sure to print In Actual Size.
I used 3 smaller sheets of Panasonic PGS in the video above. The more cost-efficient graphite sheet that I provide now comes in a single sheet big enough for the whole laptop.
Dampen the Fan Whine (2018 only, optional)
Benefits: Reduces the high-pitched whistle from the fan motor’s coils. When done correctly, this mod does not slow down the fan or make it less effective, only quieter.
Warning: this mod is challenging to do right and risks breaking your fan.
Unscrew the one tiny screw on the fan. Lift the the tabs and remove the fan’s lid.
Spin the impeller with your finger and gauge the feel of its momentum.
Gently pull the impeller off.
Cover the bearing with electrical tape or something to prevent the glue from getting into it.
You can also surround the outside of the magnet ring with putty to restrict the glue from flowing out.
Fill the coils with some kind of viscous glue or gel. I used the silicone-based thermal glue from the steps below. Wipe away any excess to make sure the impeller has enough clearance to spin as smoothly as before. Be careful not to break any wires.
Put the fan back together. Does the fan still spin smoothly? If not, go back and clean off excess glue.
Add Keyboard-Side Cooling
Research & Findings
Bare motherboard backside, heatsink not attached, plugged in, CPU idle, GPU inactive.
A good amount of heat conducts to the motherboard backside, which means we can try to transfer it out to cool the entire thing.
Cools the CPU VRM to prevent thermal shutdown when we raise the CPU power in later steps.
Cools the CPU itself to reduce thermal throttling.
Cools the charging circuit so it’s willing to charge faster during high load.
The gray thermal pads that you see in some photos/videos here are T-Global TGX that I used to recommend. I later decided that they were unnecessary, especially considering the cost. I now recommended using Arctic thermal pads, which are extremely soft (25 Shore 00) and the most thermally conductive (6W/mK) for that softness level. See what sizes you need and links in the Shopping Cart tab.
Peel the insulation film and rubber standoffs off the motherboard’s backside. The thermal pads will now occupy their space and do their job of electrical insulation and structural support.
Add a layer of 0.5mm-thick thermal pad to the entire motherboard backside minus the metal CPU and GPU mounting brackets. Make sure to also cut out space for screw holes and other protrusions.
Cover the fan’s backside with 0.5mm pad so that the fan can pull heat from the motherboard via this area of the case, which is very close to the CPU and gets very hot. (Thanks to Adrian Pflugshaupt for coming up with this!)
Not recommended for the 2019 X Pro because its fan is too thick already.
Reinstall the motherboard. Remember to reinstall all the screws and reconnect all the connectors.
Replace the dGPU Thermal Pad with a Copper Shim
Benefits: Allows the GPU to sustain about 300MHz higher frequency. The MX150 thermal-throttles above 80°C. This mod helped me shave 15°C off the GPU temperature, so now the GPU bottleneck is never temperature but only the 10W power limit of the MX150 1D12 variant.
I probably put more thermal glue around the edges than necessary, but that doesn’t matter.
Remove the GPU’s thermal pad and clean the GPU and heatsink base plate.
Put a pea-sized amount of thermal paste on the heatsink base plate.
Firmly press a 0.3mm copper shim onto the base plate.
Put a bit of thermal glue around the corners of the shim to keep it from sliding. Wait for it to cure.
Apply a rice-sized amount of thermal paste to the GPU.
Add Heatsink-Side Cooling
Research & Findings
To identify the overheating VRM components, I removed the laptop’s heatsink and put a small heatsink block on the CPU to expose the surrounding VRM for thermal imagery. These components get very hot even when the CPU is under little load.
Benefits: Prevents the CPU power-delivery components from overheating and causing the laptop to shut down when we lift power limits in the subsequent steps.
Add thermal pads according to the heights in the picture. Here’s my technique:
Cut out and put on the biggest pads first.
Press the heatsink against the components so they make imprints on the thermal pad. Now you see where the cutouts need to be.
Use a paper knife to cut out the squares for the components.
Cut the small pads for the components and put them in.
Caution: if your heatsink now rests significantly higher above the motherboard and cannot be squashed down to its usual level, that means you haven’t given one or more components enough room with your cutouts. Check for a pressure imprint and use a thinner pad at that spot.
Your cutouts may be different depending on the model year of your MXP.
Fine-Tuning Power Limits (not required for 2019 model or later)
Watch the Limits window while running TS Bench (size=1024M to run longer). Towards the end of the test, is the limit reason “THERMAL” or “PL1“?
If “THERMAL“, then you probably omitted some of the mods and your cooling capacity is lower than mine.
If “PL1“, then raise the Long Power Max by 2W and test again until you get “THERMAL“.
Your Long Power Max should be set just under where thermal throttling begins. That means you should be seeing PL1 but you know that any higher you’d get THERMAL.
We have previously been observing the latter periods during the TS Bench. Now watch the beginning. Does THERMAL kick in before PL1 takes over?
If yes, lower the Turbo Time Limit until it no longer does.
If no: raise the Turbo Time Limit until THERMAL kicks in before PL1. Then back off a little bit.
Your Turbo Time Limit should be just short enough that thermal throttling doesn’t activate before PL1.
A sensible Power Limit is better than letting the CPU thermal throttle because the 2018 X Pro’s thermal throttling has a dumb control algorithm and makes the CPU frequency fluctuate too much, resulting in lower average frequency. For the 2019 X Pro, you can just set a really high power limit and let thermal throttling handle it, because the throttling algorithm is much better on that one.
The materials for the complete project total around 80USD. Shipping costs will vary.
I used to point readers toward DigiKey until I started importing these myself to make them available for much less. If you don’t feel comfortable buying from me, then here are alternatives for graphite sheet (need 3 because smaller) and heat pipes, which I used to recommend. Keep in mind that my 9mm heat pipes have a width advantage.
Notice we are omitting keyboard-side thermal pads, which would conduct more heat to the chassis.
How can I save some money and get the most performance per buck?
I used to recommend T-Global thermal pads, Panasonic graphite sheets, and Wakefield-Vette heat pipes. The mods used to cost quite a lot. Later, I found Arctic thermal pads to work well enough, and I’ve imported my own graphite sheets and heat pipes from China to sell to you guys at 25% and 50% price, respectively. The mods are already much more cost-effective than they used to be.
You can omit the graphite sheets, which are mostly for reducing hot spots on the keyboard.
Can I pay you to do these for me?
No, sorry. I’m really busy with college so I can only spend time on spreading the information instead of helping one person at a time.
May 10, 2018
I replaced the CPU thermal paste with Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut and the GPU thermal pad with 0.5mm Fujipoly XR-m. These should give me more thermal headroom, but I didn’t check the temperatures in stock form beforehand, so I have no comparison.
May 15, 2018
The MateBook X Pro’s CPU throttles to ~10W under sustained load. Intel XTU and HWiNFO report that this is Power Limit throttling, specifically PL1, which is set to 10W by default.
May 20, 2018
I followed this guide to disable DPTF in Windows, and now the package TDP can stay at 30W as long as Turbo Boost Power Max in XTU is set to 30 or above.
With the Power Limit unlocked, XTU’s CPU stress test caused the laptop to shut off. The CPU at that time was 92°C, which leads me to believe that something else, such as a MOSFET, is overheating.
I was on a -100mV undervolt, so I reverted to normal voltage but it shut off even quicker. Therefore, CPU instability is probably not the cause either.
I gave the MX150 a Base Clock Offset of +200MHz and a Memory Clock Offset of +400MHz. They have been stable for me.
June 2, 2018
I removed the heatsink, put a little heatsink on the CPU, ran a stress test and measured the temperatures of the components surrounding the CPU. The inductors, MOSFETs, and resistors right above the CPU are the hottest, exceeding 60°C.
July 7, 2018
I peeled off the plastic insulator film on the keyboard side of the motherboard and put thermal pads on the CPU area to cool the aforementioned components. I used 0.5mm on the metal bracket and 1mm everywhere else. I want their heat to go to the keyboard-area unibody. It won’t burn my hands because the heat doesn’t transfer to the keys much.
I am no longer using Fujipoly XR-m thermal pads because their tendency to dry makes me worry that their conductivity might degrade over time. Instead, I switched to Thermal Grizzly Minus Pad 8 across the board. Its theoretical thermal conductivity is lower, but its softness allows it to possibly work better in practice.
I also taped up the gaps along the hot air exhaust passage to make sure hot air doesn’t escape back into the laptop.
July 8, 2018
I took off the MX150 core overclock to let GPU Boost 3.0 do its own thing.
I suspect that recent BIOS updates have reduced CPU power behavior. The package power hasn’t been boosting beyond 20W.
July 9, 2018
Breakthrough! I am now able to sustain well over 20W indefinitely by combining XTU and ThrottleStop. XTU has the ability to set PL1 and PL2 to unlimited, which I haven’t been able to replicate in ThrottleStop. Meanwhile, ThrottleStop can disable Speed Shift and enforce a high Multiplier. I think both programs have a apply-once behavior rather than regularly checking, so they don’t seem with fight with each other. This has completely counteracted any possible behavior changes done by the BIOS update.
July 28, 2018
This method of disabling Intel DPTF no longer works for me, but I found a new method and have updated the guide accordingly.
July 31, 2018
Plugged in, CPU idle.
I found why the MXPro charges slowly, doesn’t charge, or even discharges under high load. The charging rate is thermal throttling. The inductor and its surrounding transistors are thermal-padded to the heatsink, but that doesn’t seem to be enough.
August 5, 2018
Added heatpipe hack and SSD cooling.
Updated copper shim, keyboard-side and heatsink-side instructions.
I’m now able to hit 42W and sustain over 30W.
Added PassMark result.
October 5, 2018
Eliminated the need for XTU, since ThrottleStop 8.70 can disable power limits now.
November 14, 2018
Added Adrian’s method of putting thermal pads under the fan and the step to make undervolt stick after reboot.
Changed the force highest frequency method from Set Multiplier to tweaking the Speed Shift number.
November 23, 2018
Added the fan whine damping trick.
December 5, 2018
Put the GPU copper shim step before heatsink-side pads.
Switched from 0.5mm to 0.3mm copper shim after realizing the original GPU thermal pad, being pressed down, was closer to 0.3mm effective thickness.
Decreased GPU area heatsink-side pads’ thickness by 0.5mm.
December 25, 2018
Added the step to streamline the fan exhaust, after realizing that sealing the exhaust with electrical tape was insufficient and caused fan whistle.
December 26, 2018
Added registry file to one-click disable DPTF.
January 18, 2019
Added method for granular control over power limits in XTU instead of completely disabling PL.
Moved step to make ThrottleStop launch on Startup to the Undervolting stage.
January 22, 2019
Replaced XTU method with newly learned method of tuning power limits in ThrottleStop.
DPTF removal is no longer necessary because ThrottleStop can prevent DPTF from applying power limits.
Clarified undervolting instructions.
Refined Speed Shift instructions.
January 23, 2019
Deleted mounting putty from shopping cart.
April 7, 2019
Turned “Tweak Performance-Battery Balance” step into “Use SpeedShift instead of SpeedStep” and moved it to the beginning since it is independent of the hardware mods.
April 9, 2019
Added FAQ section.
April 27, 2019
Migrated the initial software tweaks, such as undervolting and SpeedShift, to a separate guide called “Actually Hardcore Tweaks“.
May 28, 2019
Added instruction to raise PP0 Current Limit in “Raise Current & Power Limits”.
July 7, 2019
Changed copper shim link from 15mm to 20mm.
Added option for cheaper graphite sheet I procured from China. It’s been verified to perform just as well as the Panasonic ones, but at a fraction of the price.
July 10, 2019
Added options for cheaper heat pipes I procured from China. They are wider than the Wakefield-Vette ones and should therefore transfer more heat.
August 24, 2019
Made the eBay options for graphite sheet and heat pipe default/recommended.
August 25, 2019
Changed keyboard-side thermal pad thickness from 1mm to 0.5mm. I realized 1mm made the motherboard bulge up too much.
Changed keyboard-side SSD thermal pad from 1.5mm to 1mm for the same reason. Now we don’t need ANY 1.5mm pads!
Changed recommended thermal pad from TGX to Arctic. Arctic’s performance comes close at a much lower price. Now we can use a single sheet of 0.5mm Arctic for both keyboard-side and heatsink-side. Super cost effective. It is also less dense, so less weight added to laptop.
Removed instruction to turn off BD PROCHOT to prioritize GPU performance.
Changed thermal glue link to cheaper but equally performing brand.
August 27, 2019
Replaced picture of motherboard backside with updated 0.5mm thermal pad.
August 31, 2019
Indicated “2018 only” for heatsink-side thermal pads. I tested this mod on the 2019 today and saw a ~1.5W decrease in cooling capacity. This makes sense because the 2019 already has the perforations to cool the VRM, and not stuffing this space with thermal pads leaves more surface area for convection.
January 25, 2020
Added SSD thermal imagery.
March 3, 2020
No longer recommending heatsink-side thermal pads for the GPU area in particular. New testing showed statistically insignificant gains from connecting the GPU VRM to the heatsink. This makes sense because the GPU area is not surrounded by a “fence” on the heatsink like the CPU area is. Therefore, it already receives sufficient airflow.
July 4, 2020
Changed SSD thermal pad from 1mm to 0.5mm. Both thicknesses were fine but 0.5mm is enough to bridge the gap.
October 10, 2020
Changed the main heatsink-side thermal pad from 1mm to 1.5mm. This improves contact with the motherboard and lower components like small resistors.
July 23, 2021
Added new mod: increase heatsink mounting pressure.
Removed “2018 only” tag from “heatsink-side thermal pads” after finding that it does help on a 2020 model.
November 27, 2022
Added recommendation to use PTM7950 phase-change thermal pad instead of thermal paste, in the Shopping List.
It cost me several hundred dollars (thermal camera, materials etc.) and countless hours to figure this out, so please consider donating to support this project!
If you have a question, please leave a comment instead of emailing me, so that everyone can see the answer. Thanks!
Your Huawei MateBook X Pro’s touchpad (or trackpad) feels loose, and it rattles or wobbles up and down when you tap on it. You are able to depress the touchpad surface without it actually clicking. In other words, there is play or slack in the touchpad.
[tabs][tab title=”Recommended Paper Method”]
Simply insert a piece of paper under each of these metal tabs. If you need help opening the bottom lid, watch the video below.
Thanks to everyone in the MateBook community who helped these solutions evolve! (See the original, primitive touchpad fix here.)
[tab title=”Permanent Method”]
You can also hammer down the tabs to the right tolerance. This method gives you the most control over how tight you want the touchpad to be, and the most consistency of feel.
The ID card is to support the touchpad from underneath, or else you’d just be hammering the chassis.
Practically all MateBook X Pros have a loose touchpad. 62% of users in this survey reported having this problem. I believe the other 38% simply did not notice it or see it as a problem, since it is a subjective issue.
The touchpad’s looseness is caused by the excessive clearance between the touchpad and the chassis. During assembly, the touchpad is slotted into the chassis and a machine presses down the two metal tabs to secure it in place. The touchpad’s “upper limit” of travel is where the tabs touch the chassis. Its “lower limit” is where the tactile switch bottoms out. A perfectly tight touchpad actuation requires the upper limit to coincide with the tactile switch’s resting/undepressed/up position, so that there is no slack. However, because the metal tabs are not pressed in far enough, they leave a gap where the touchpad can travel down without yet actuating the tactile switch.