Hey Brad! I’ve been viewing your amazing blog and is shocked by the theme and the posts you’ve made! Our seventh grade blogs are worthless to any of your eighth grade blogs! The sketches too! Anyway, you are a wunderkind on tech stuff and I’m supposed to write spots to improve for you! You’re flawless! That’s what’s happening! I don’t even know where you got your theme! O_O 😀 OoO OMGEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Thanks 小宝！You don’t have to be shocked at the theme, it’s just a theme called Edublogs Responsive, nothing special. All I did was put a bunch of floating Androids as the background. What you’re looking at is my design. It’s just a picture I created with Pixelmator (which means it’s PS’d). It’s fake, it’s just a design, and it’s impossible to make true on Edublogs.
I have the same motherboard as you and am having issues getting this to run. Did you use virtualbox to get things started and if so what image did you use
Hello Seathasky! It’s awesome that you are the first person out of my school to comment on my blog! It’s cool that you’re using the same board, and I’ll try to help you. Did you try flashing the patched ROM with AFUWin?
Didnt need to flash the rom apparently, but only issue now is getting the damn thing to install correctly. keeps saying “Still waiting for root device” any suggestions? can you post your kernal 🙂
Anyways, i got a unibeast usb stick now, problem is when i load it i see the apple screen for a split second and reboots. I probably need to patch my bios only issue is afuwinx86 crashes in windows everytime i try and use it. im curious how you g ot it to work
Maybe run afuwin as admin or compatibility mode?
Do you know the command to flash bios with afudos? afudos pmpatched.bin /gan in dos doesnt work
Sorry, I don’t know about afudos, never got that far on this. There’s a guide on ericthewino.com about patching the Killer’s BIOS.
I pmpatched the bios file from the asrock webpage, patched fine but when i try and use instant flash in the asrock bios, it wont flash. get some secure flash check failed? any help would be appreciated
Success, I got my bios flashed with afudos. apparently the xxxx.bin file had too many characters in its name. Flashed it successfully, put my unibeast usb stick in and booted with f11, BAM! everything works now haha! 🙂
thanks for the very helpul informations on this page, sadly it doesn’t work on my killer board.
I have pmpatched bios and created all necessary sticks/files.
Problem is that the machine hangs at booting the installer with a kernel panic, no restart, have to kill it manually. I also tried different boot args..
hi, thank you, sadly i am not able to make a photo of the Screen at the Moment, since i am not at home for a while. but i assume i have problems with my 79×0 Card or BIOS. Can you eventually send me a copy of your pmpatched BIOS?
This shit doesnt work on i7 4770k , gtx 780 , asrock z87 killer. I tried also to use the integrated hd 4600 but this wont help. When you want to install the OS from USB you see apple logo for about 0.5 sec and the PC reboots.
Any ideas ????
You need to patch your UEFI BIOS. I’m sorry that part of the tutorial is unclear. I will update it with specific instructions.
1. Extract your BIOS ROM with AMIBIOS Patch Utility.
2. Patch the extracted ROM file with PMPatch.
3. Flash the patched file back in with AMIBIOS Patch Utility.
You may need to look online for exactly how to do these steps, because I learned it from ericthewino.com and have now forgotten. Good luck!
I have two accounts on my device, yesterday I was using these without incident and they worked fine. At the end of the day I switched to the other account and it wasn’t working at all, so I ran the same fix to no ail, now more than just those applications don’t work…any advice?
Thanks for all the work! I’m a bit confused though. Is the equalizer set to Parametric EQ or Graphic EQ? After ABing the two, I found the Graphic EQ to be less veiled are more engaging to listen to.
using amarra for tidal and used your post to approximate the eq curve – albeit visually. Very impressed with the results. I never knew what frequencies were killing me sibilance-wise. helpful indeed. my sincere thanks, man!
Brad, do you think it’s possible that certain frequencies (especially the highs) resonate louder than others because of the ear inside the cups? Every sound test dummy I’ve seen (and home made rig) just has holes in the side of its head (or yoga block) and no ears! Also the way the frequencies are channeled into the ear canal by way of the ear contours/folds itself may cause a resonate frequency to develop for someone at 6K and another person at 8K.
The reason I ask this is because I ended up tuning mine by ear using a controllable sine sweep plugin and HOURS of computer time behind Fab Filter ProQ2 (trial). What I found was that there were nasty peaks at 6.2 and 7.2K for my ears which I cut hard and a complete null at 8.3 which I had to boost with a high Q value surgically. My hearing is good and I can hear all the way to 17K almost, so that’s not the issue.
After my initial post, I ended up modeling your exact settings in FFPQ2, and compared it to my manual attempt. Suffice it to say, the results of my manual tuning were subjectively better sounding to my ears than this guide’s settings. I’m thinking it’s either ear shape, unique anatomical sensitivities to certain frequencies, or poor QC on the cans by Hifiman. What thoughts have you?
your specific ear shape and ear canal will make the ideal curve rather personal. If you want a lot of technical information on those head dummmies (many are based on averages from the 1960s or ignore ears altogether) as it applies to HRTFs see here: https://core.ac.uk/download/pdf/36418235.pdf.
Your personal ear shape can cause frequency responses of more than +-5dB all over the frequency spectrum. Some of that you may normalize so it doesn’t really matter, some you may not. But it is personal for sure.
I have similar problem/error. I am running W10 using Bootcamp in Apple MacBook Pro. I presume windows update could be the cause. I have tried few methods to rebuild the BCD but nothing works.
isn’t the inner fidelity graph for the he400? not the he400i? two distinctly different cans. Maybe it’s inferred because of the 2014 year moniker? I’m totally asking not suggesting. thx!
Hi Brad, thanks for the config. Can you confirm that I remove everything in the Equalizer APO and then add the Convolver wave file? Or don’t i need to removethe standard pre-amp and config.txt?
It doesn’t really matter. You can remove them or simply turn them off, or you can even use them if you want. Play around with the Configurator! You might find something that you want to add. But for my configuration, you don’t need anything else.
I’m pretty sure I have this working with JRiver and a text file created with Equilizer APO. In any event, Norah Jones sounds a whole lot less shouty now with the HE-400i’s. Many thanks…
Unfortunately for me the command:
“C:\drivers\Intel Rapid Storage Technology Driver\SetupRST.exe” -a -p “C\drivers\Intel Rapid Storage Technology Driver”
does not work.
It seems that Lenovo changed the package installer with different – now they use Driver Package Installer (DPInst) and there is no such command to extract the driver content…
Hi! When I try to use the wav files for the foobar convolver I get this error: “Could not initialize convolver (Unsupported format or corrupted file)”. Can you help me with this? Thanks in advance!
I get the same error as Staffador using these convolver files with the foobar convolver component. However I went back to your earlier post and those convolver files do work so there is something different with these impulse response files than the ones you previously posted for your earlier EQ settings. Thanks for sharing this work!
This format allows me to still be able to mess around with the config file via the graphical Editor program since each include statement shows up and can be toggled on/off with the mouse.
weirdly enough I just have all diffrent kinds of config files open as tabs in the APO config editor and I can update the settings there with no problem.
Hi Im very grateful for these settings. I am trying to copy this manually using an au eq plug on osx (Audirvana > Nova). I just wanted to ask what q value I should use for the shelfs (mine are set at 0.7)? Also do you advise to eq down all the way from the 20hz peak or just down at the 8khz peak and eq up for the bass?
Same problem here! The last Logitech Options update that offers “continuous scrolling” on MS Edge is the 6.70.1055 for me. I got only a formal answer from Logitech 🙁
When I was trying to remove bottom cover in my unit I noticed that something is keeping it attached to the rest of the computer in the very middle (after prying all of the plastic tabs on the periphery off). I didn’t dare to pull too hard. Did you experience something similar? What was your solution?
With the gap on the igpu any recommendations for another thermal pad or think it possible to use a combination of both to improve the temps? Awesome job on the teardown,
I installed Ubuntu 16.04 on it and EVERYTHING worked out of the box. First time that has ever happened. Brightness / sound adjust buttons, Wifi, bluetooth…. it runs really good and ubuntu looks really good in 3k resolution!
Hi Brad, I tried this but did not seem to work. I probably did not put the paper in between the right layers? Could you post more description, or better yet more pictures or a video? Thanks!
You’re awesome! After watching your video, I realized that I mis-understood your picture – the most important part is to get a piece of paper in between the hole in the front and the frame. The ‘tail’ of the paper doesn’t matter – it’s the small piece under the hole that makes the difference.
I tried to use a thicker piece of paper (index card), but that seemed to jam the mechanism, and after closing the lid I could no longer feel a click. I tried putting tiny pieces of electrical tape under the feet of the metal plate (there are 2 – just visible on the bottom and lower-right edges of your pic), but this didn’t work either – couldn’t feel a click.
I think your fix is the only thing I’ve tried so far that works. You just need a thin piece of paper in the right spot. I’m disappointed in Huawei’s QC though. Hopefully your fix holds up!
Oops, I am so sorry. Now I realized that my X Pro did actually come with a PM981. I didn’t even notice when I took it out and replaced it with my larger 1TB 960 Pro!
Had current throttling, now after reinstalling intel thermal framework i get power limit, no matter the watts in xtu.
I suspect it’s some mosfets or something though, just got that feeling running benches and monitoring clocks, throttling ect.
I bought some thermal pads, will try it out tomorrow.
I have the same issue. Love the notebook. I think it fits my needs better than my xps 9550. Besides the rattling track pad, I haven’t had any issues. I will be trying this mod this weekend, sometime. I will try to post some pictures.
Hey Brad did you have to rip off the rubber feet in order to open the back of the Huawei laptop? I know you had to remove the rubber feet on the old one in order to access the back panel.
Great thanks Brad. Last question since you switched your ssd for a Samsung Pro 960 have you noticed a difference small or big with performance in regards to day to use of the laptop? Or any differences in general at all since the switch?
Thanks Brad I was considering buying a Samsung 970 or 960 Pro to replace the 512 Toshiba that came with my laptop since the read speed sucks but I don’t use it for anything main stream. Just Basic use from web surfing, university projects, and music. But if its not worth it since no noticeable change is seen then not worth me wasting money.
Does the i7 CPU hit 4 Ghz? I work a lot with data, but I’m considering getting the i5 versions if the difference in speeds isn’t that great, though the lack of RAM upgradeability gives me pause…
Correction: I actually hit 4.0GHz. I have MSI Afterburner display the CPU usage, clock speed, package power and temperature in the notification area, but it shows frequency in MHz and truncates all but the first 2 digits. So it was trying to show 3978MHz or something like that but I only saw “39”. Recently, I looked at HWiNFO instead and realized it did hit 4.0Ghz.
You mention that there’s too much space between the heatsink and the MX150 to use thermal paste, How thick/thin of a thermal pad do you recommend to use here?
I had some leftover thermal pad product from a previous project and it seemed to work just fine after being cut to size. This is what I used and was 0.5mm thick: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ZSJRH22/
@Brad Is there a reason you went for a 0.5mm thick thermal pad? Can a thicker one be used? Also I was looking into Graphite Thermal Pads which have thermal conductivity of 35W/m-k, versus the 17 of the Fujipoly XR-m, do you know anything about these?
Then I wonder why you use only 0.3mm copper pad in your guide? Or are you saying the IC Graphite is too thin for the gap if you use this for cpu too? This might raise the overall distance of the heatsink. How flexible do you think the heatsink is?
It would probably be the best to use thermal paste on cpu and graphite pad on gpu..
The GPU originally has a 0.5mm thermal pad. 0.3mm copper shim is closest to that considering copper does not compress. CPU continues to use thermal paste.
I tried using only thermal paste on GPU; it wasn’t enough to fill the gap. IC Graphite wouldn’t either.
Some things just doesn’t make sense to me, please try to explain it.
You have used mostly 0.5 mm thermal pads around heatsink, which is completely reasonable how thin laptop is. But as we know GPU hole is a bit deeper, why did Huawei used only 0.5mm thermal pad originaly, isn’t that also a bit too far from the heatsink?
If I go by that logic, I should try to use 1mm (or even 1.5mm?) arctit thermal pad on GPU hole, and would gain better results with the original one? Probably result won’t be as good as your mod with another layer of copper, but should be still quite better than stock pad, which seems too thin?
What do you mean by “GPU hole”? There is no recession in the heatsink for the GPU.
Thanks Brad for answering.
Oh I’m sorry, I thought there was same bend-in small hole for where GPU touches heatsink base plate, my bad.
Now I get it – you actually add copper shin because you have added thermal pads almost all over the heatsink base plate on the bottom, so that it evens out (doh). And since Thermal pads are soft and you can squeeze them a bit, copper shim is suppose to be a bit thinner. I hope I understand this correct:)
But still what I don’t get it is that, there is 0.5mm thermal pad as stock, isn’t that uneven to begin with, and is suppose to be 0.5mm thicker in GPU area by design?
OK now the main question, in case you don’t do copper shim mod:
a) If I use 0.5mm thermal pads around the heatsink base plate as you did, I should use than 1mm thermal pad for GPU? In that case height of base plate should be the same as original?
b) If I don’t put any of thermal pads on bottom of hearsink, could I just add good thermal paste on GPU, since bas plate won’t be any higher than stock elsewhere?
And extra question – In case of b) (so without extra thermal pads on bottom of plate), does it makes sense to put them on top of heatpipe, so it dispenses even more heat away from CPU and GPU? Yeah bottom of laptop might get a bit hotter, but chips should run even cooler. In many video I saw that type of applying thermal pads (for different laptops though), I have also done like that in my ex XPS 13 and it worked really well in term of CPU temperature (20-25 degrees celsius lower in idle already than stock!). 30 vs 55 degrees difference. And all I have done there was a fresh MX-4 and thermal pads on top od heatsink.
Just a small note – by applying thermal pads on heatsink I meant only on part where CPU is, and at the end, near the exhaust from fan, I realize design is completely different in MBX, but it might help when applying it on correct part of heatpipe?
On the July 7th update, did you use the same 0.5 thermal pads again? Or did you get something thicker? Also, after doing that and taping up the fan area, did you notice decent temp changes?
If you remove the plastic film, is that permanent? Or can it be put back if needed? Also, how do the thermal pads stay in place on the back side of the motherboard? I thought they generally don’t stick, or are they thick enough to sit against the body without moving?
Thank you for all these guides, I really appreciate it!
If you remove the plastic film, is that permanent? Or can it be put back if needed? Also, how do the thermal pads stay in place on the back side of the motherboard? I thought they generally don’t stick, or are they thick enough to sit against the body without moving?
Thank you for all these guides, I really appreciate it!
I see that you changed your thermal pad. Is the TGX series worth it over the grizzly one you were using earlier? It’s more expensive/a little more difficult to obtain.
With the removal of the plastic film from the motherboard, I’m going to take a wild guess that’s not only going to void the warranty but its probably not something you can put back on correct?
Also, what do you think about using 0.5mm copper shims with the kryonaut thermal paste? Could that possibly yield better results than thermal pads for the gpu?
Thanks for all the work you’ve put in for this device!
I will test TGX against Minus Pad 8 on the GPU soon.
Yes, most of this stuff voids the warranty. You could probably stick it back on but it might not look as nice.
Thanks for the copper shim suggestion! I was initially afraid that its hardness may damage my chip, but I’ll try it anyway for the sake of science.
My PH0 bit fits the screws perfectly. Unfortunately, laptop screws are proprietary nowadays and your best bet would be to contact Huawei and see if you can buy from them.
Hi. In using the processor graphics voltage offset I have reached -1.00V and run stress tests with no issue. This number seems much higher than yours and I wanted to make sure that I wasn’t missing something or if I should not have it that low. Let me know what you think. Thanks!
Have you measured the CPU and GPU speed? Did the modification make any difference? This is quite some change to the hardware, so I would not consider anything like this if it does not give you dramatically gain performance wise.
I just ran a CPU stress test (i7/16GB/512GB/MX150) with Intel Extreme Tuning Utility (the [SW] Undervolt mod applied) but the CPU still hit 85°C. Even when I’m just surfing the web I can’t place it on my lap unless I wanna have my balls hard boiled…
How hot does your CPUs get? Fan is almost constantly whirring…
Hey Brad, you think i could use the fujipoly pads and add some kryonaut paste to make contact better, I already bought them, dont want my money to be wasted. Thank you for your work.
Hey Brad, my apologies if this is not best place for this question but couldn’t find an e-mail to get in touch..
I live in Thailand and the Matebook X Pro hasn’t been released here yet so I am planning to buy it in China in a couple of weeks and wondering about the process to change the language to English (read in a reddit thread post that you went through this). Do I have to buy a brand new Windows license or there’s another way? Also, do you know if the chinese warranty will be void after doing this? Contacted Huawei support in HK by phone and he believed it would be void if I re-install Windows.. he didn’t sound so sure about the information tho and it seems unlikely to me that would be the case. Anyways, any thoughts would be greatly appreciated!
Cheers,
Daniel
I highly doubt that reinstalling Windows would void the warranty. When you send a device in for warranty repair, they won’t care to check your Windows license.
The video got me thinking whether bridging the heat-spreader with the fan would help further reduce temps? ebay has some 90x5x1mm heat-pipes that would be right up to the task.
I would be curious to know what kind of changes you have seen in performance/temperature as well after doing all of these mods to your rig. Just bought an MBXP myself and would love to get a little more out of it, especially with the games I have on it; however, this is all a bit over my head. Have you thought about doing this to other peoples computers as a service? I would definitely send you mine and pay you to do the same to it, assuming you are yielding some pretty good results with yours. Let us know if you dont mind. Thanks for all of your hard work!
Could you please share the amount of performance gains you’ve achieved after your mods with a little bit more detail?
I’m not sure what to choose between the MBXP with mx150 or the Thinkpad t480s with the same specs. The Thinkpad seems to have the best thermal performance in the market, able to run at full turbo boost (3.4 Ghz for the i5-8250u version) for an hour without any thermal or power limit throttling. I’m curious about your results when running back to back Cinebench tests. how much turbo is this machine able to maintain in the long run when all the cores are busy? if you share the stable temperature, test scores, and the cpu speed after 5-10 minutes of continuously running Cinebench it would be a great help 🙂
Since Huawei only allows to install drivers through Huawei Device Manager now, I have a problem to install these recommended drivers in given order. Can you please help me to solve this issue?
You write that you updated the post. But in what way? Still I don’t find a way to install the driver in your recommended order. The Huawei Device Manager has it’s own internal order which I can’t influence.
oops! Now I found the indivual drivers on Huawei’s website listed below separatly for download. After following your installations order everthing works fine now. Thank you!
hi Brad am stuck i cant find the drivers from huawei website
can you help please
Very interesting guide! I was wondering why did you go for dissipating extra heat via keyboard instead of the back of the computer. After all they keyboard mod is harder to implement and plastic air filled keys will provide natural insulation limiting the effectiveness.
I also noticed that the DPTF step of the guide only includes instructions on how to avoid driver reinstallation, but seems to be missing instructions on how to disable DPTF.
Sadly, the “proper” heatsink the laptop already has just can’t dissipate that much heat, so I’m using the aluminum body that runs through the keyboard area to share some of that load. I also found that Huawei put a graphite sheet behind the keyboard to spread the heat a little bit.
I found that checking “Also apply to matching devices that are already installed” when setting the Group Policy happens to be a shortcut for uninstalling the DPTF devices. It’s a handy alternative to manually uninstalling them in Device Manager first.
That’s a great idea, but the downside is it disrupts the airflow of the original cooling system, and/or there is less heatsink exposed to the internal air chamber. Overall cooling would improve, but the original cooler would become slightly less efficient. However, if you don’t lap your laptop much, your method is definitely viable!
I got a question regarding the thermal glue. Any reason not to just apply the kryonaut thermal paste on both sides with the copper shim, instead of using the glue?
Only thing I don’t like about the glue is that it’s probably not going to be removable correct? If you have already done this, did you notice a difference in termps compared to the thermal pads you were using?
Hi Yannik Yo! I am Bunhong may you help me please? I just reinstalled the window 10 pro on my Hauwei Matebook x device but now the fingerprint doesn’t work! I have installed all drivers above but it still not work!!
Worked for me as well – did a fresh install of the latest Win 10 ISO and my fingerprint sensor wouldn’t work regardless of having the latest drivers installed by Huawei’s PC Manager.
Went through the list included here one by one and it worked.
I did NOT reboot between each driver installation but did at the end, and it worked so don’t waste that time, although it does boot quickly.
Yes agree with you about the warranty, don’t think it will be void after reinstalling Windows.
Anyways I decided to try and just bought it, now I have to change the language from Chinese to English, do you mind sharing how you did that?
Thanks,
Dan
I tried this fix and seem to log sensitivity when clicking and especially click when dragging upward to near the top of the touchpad. Is that par for the course for this fix?
I see that actually is the MX150 model, but on doing some more research I think you may have missed one thing, there are actually fins under the heat plate before the fan, thus it is actively cooling fins, just by sucking rather than pushing. I don’t have one on hand but this is from notebookcheck, unless these fin looking things are just fasteners or something?
Unfortunately, those pointy things are the pins for the battery connector. Help yourself to the picture of the heatsink backside in the Electronics section.
I see the shopping list now, do I need everything in that list or can I use just Arctic thermal pads in the various sizes. The stuff on Digikey is very expensive ($138 for thermal pads?).
Sorry for the super late reply, but you could use Arctic for everything, it would just be slightly worse thermal conductivity. But yeah I understand that much money for thermal pads is kinda crazy.
Recently I’ve got a problem with headphones buzzing noise. I tried to update driver, reinstall it, but without success. Every time I plug the headphones into jack I get same buzzing frustrating noise.
Do you have any suggestion how to solve this issue?
Motherboard design flaw: power circuit is right next to audio circuit, causing lots of interference. Maybe more shielding between them would help, but I’m not sure.
Thanks so much for sharing this! I agree, this new EQ makes the he400i sound much more natural (especially for vocals). I’ve used your settings as a platform to EQ the headphones to my music / tastes. It’s been a pleasure seeing this EQ evolve over time and hearing your thoughts on the justifications on the changes.
On another note, have you done any modifications to the headphones?
Thank you Brad for your prompt reply! I solved the problem after uninstalling Realtek driver and installing it from Huawei website. I got an option to choose (after plugging headphones) headset or headphone in notification panel.
did you got the i5 or i7? i got the i7 8 GB RAM and 512 GB. Updated the Driver but still whistle on some audio playbacks. you can clearly hear it if you the music is very “quiet”
Impressive cooling mods, thanks for sharing the detailed guide with us.
I’m quite interested in seeing the CPU + CPU temps behavior as well as GPU+CPU behaviors under combined load.
Would you please share the XTU curves with which you got the 1093 score ? Mind doing a 3dmark Firestrike and share CPU+GPU temps and if possible curve ?
Seeing the MBXP (passive) cooling, I am perplex it would sustain GPU+CPU sustained load (hence I’d be considering the non-dGPU version).
Hi Brad. Awesome guide! I did some of the mods now, the GPU shim and some thermal pads. I used arctic everywhere because the high-end stuff is just too expensive. I only padded the hot parts because I think some airflow should remain and I’m scared parts that would be normally cold could get heated unnecessarily. I am still waiting for graphite sheets and heat pipes. I am seeing much improved GPU and SSD performance from the shim and thermal pads.
About the graphite sheets: These make a bit worried about heating the battery to 65 degree celsius on every heavy use as I guess it basically draws heat from the keyboard to the battery area. Are you not worried about this – especially combined with the completely restricted airflow from the full board padding?
Overall I expect the heatpipes will make the biggest difference, but to get better temps and maybe even more performance, the FAN itself probably would need to be upgraded. Or it should at least have some denser fins that would allow it to pick up more heat from the heat shield/heatpipe/fan case combo.
btw. after the heatpipes are installed.. can you still remove the motherboard from the machine?
The graphite sheets are applied onto the chassis and not directly on the battery, so the battery has not that much thermal contact with it. But your concerns are definitely valid and your decision is wise if battery lifespan is a priority.
The thermal glue that I used is fairly easily removable, plus I used only thermal paste between the heat pipes and fan, so the heatsink can lift right off with the heat pipes.
Hi, I’m a little confused as to how to unplug the battery. Do I need to remove the heatsink first, and then unplug the multicolored cables? (Assuming the multicolored cables are the battery connectors. )
Any way to unplug the battery without dismantling the heatsink?
The low frequency roll-off on my HE400i headphones drives me nuts. I’ve been playing around with equalization curves to compensate, and will try these when I get home. One question, though… Don’t we need to add a command to the Equalizer APO file to lower the gain, to avoid clipping? These settings are going to add eight to ten decibels on the low end.
It’s in the picture in the Heatsink-Side Cooling. It’s only for the transistors of the charging circuit. You could save a ton of money by stacking two 1mm pads instead of getting the 2mm.
Hey brad! I tried installing APO, then set it to control the speakers, reboot, then fiddled with the EQ and preamp but am not having the sound reflect any of the changes. Any ideas? what are your settings with the configurator?
I’ve undervolted the “processor graphics voltage offset” to -0.100V already and I’m scared to go any further because you had to stop at -0.050V. Am I doing something wrong or is my unit somehow different from yours? 5min stress test ran fine and I don’t see anything unstable. Should the laptop freeze or crash or what am I testing for? CPU limit was -0.100V, same as yours.
Brad, I now got all the parts, but a question arises.. on the backside of the motherboard, did you remove that foil that is there by default before padding everything with thermal pads?
Looking at your padded motherboard backside image it seems like you removed that foil (aluminum?). Could you confirm that as well? I’m scared to do it because it seems besides spreading the heat a bit that foil maybe provides ground to a few connectors? On the front I see that you left the similar shield above the usb-c and charging circuits intact.
Ok got it.. shield needs to be removed. I did all the hw mods now, but using arctic everywhere. I only used two PGS sheets as it felt like the middle one would just move heat to the underside of the touchpad where it has nowhere to go. Additionally I added a 0.5mm pad to the “underside” of the fan in the hope heat would get removed more directly from the motherboard underside.
The heatpipes make an amazing difference! Highly recommended. I did wonder whether it would maybe be possible to use PGS to move heat to the fan casing instead of the heatpipes. Answering my own question from earlier I believe it’s possible to remove the heatsink together with the fan after the mod if one first detaches the fan wires.
Working below the motherboard I had some issues with bad connections after reassembly. So if anyone does this, check all those tiny connectors are properly attached. I reassembled the whole thing 3 times because of bad connections for camera/touchscreen and once I forgot to plug in the keyboard.
SW-wise I don’t feel comfortable to remove the intel thermal framework. Using throttlestop it seems possible to lock thermal limit 2 giving 25 W instead of 10W. This gives my 9219 in PassMark9 CPU.
Reading on the web about some atom tablets and laptops with the i5-8250u it might be possible to overwrite the BIOS tdp values using RWeverything. If anyone would find the correct offsets this could maybe give fully configurable TDP.
With the GPU thermal mods there seems be a lot of headroom to get more GPU performance. Using MSI Afterburner it is possible to boost the VRAM clock by 1000 MHz (no choke!) and using the freq curve editor and a mostly flat curve at 1700 mHz, the MX150 manages to often stay at that frequency. This gives me 2395 points in the passmark9 3d test even without the CPU at its full potential.
Wow, this is awesome! I’m so glad it’s working out for you.
The fan underside cooling sounds like a great idea! I hadn’t thought of that before. The graphite sheet and laptop case can transfer some heat to that side of the fan casing – brilliant!
If I were you, I wouldn’t go through the trouble of modifying the BIOS because DPTF is the one setting the TDP/power limits.
You’d want to benchmark the GPU at various VRAM overclocks because you may lose performance to error correction when VRAM is overclocked too much. Make sure you find your sweet spot.
Yes.. I guess the hard part is finding the sweet spot where the underclock maximizes what we can get out of the 10W. I had 1700 mHz and +1000 on the memory, but that lead to memory corruption and hard crashes and now I’m running 1650 mHz CPU and +500 on the memory and that seems stable and performance is similar. Before all the mods I got really bad FPS in games after a few minutes and now it seems really stable with the GPU staying at 70 degrees.
The fan thing: I’m not sure which way the heat will actually flow.. maybe it also leads more heat going to the case from the top side. In any case I’m pretty happy with temperatures, but things might change again once I maybe still block DPTF.
I would prefer a configurable solution to the tdp thing and that’s why I don’t like blocking DPTF. Once it’s fully disabled, can you still limit the CPU to 10W if necessary (for battery life)?
Of course! The whole point of disabling DPTF is allowing you to set your own TDP in XTU. I have it at unlimited but you can set 25W, 10W, or whatever else!
Ok so I went there and got rid of DPTF and now I’m almost able to match your benchmark results. I do seem to get some different throttling though.. the package power in ThrottleStop never surpasses 38W and depending on what load is used, the cores sometimes reach 3.7 GHz and sometimes just 2.5 – so something else seems to be holding them back besides PL1/PL2. Or maybe the unlimited current limit somehow isn’t really applied by XTU.
I think maybe I’m using a newer BIOS than you because I can’t find any other difference in our setups anymore. I updated to 1.17. What did you use when you did the benchmarks?
Hmmm… I was using 1.12. What are the performance limit reasons according to HWiNFO?
I checked with HWInfo and I’m getting various ICCmax and “IA: Turbo Attenuation (MCT)” as the limit reason although I set all ICCmax values in XTU to 255 A. So maybe changing the ICCmax is no longer possible even with DPTF disabled.
I did some more tests and was finally able to lock the CPU at 3.7 gHz / 4.0 gHz. There was no current limit… the CPU just never uses more than 38W in my case. I can undervolt to -120mV, so I guess I’m lucky. The “throttling” I saw was just SpeedStep and SpeedSwitch trying to adjust the CPU freq to the optimal frequency, but for benchmarks optimal is as high as possible.
With this numbers I come very close to your benchmark numbers. My RAM score in PassMark is lower, but that’s just because I only have 8 GB of RAM (no 16GB model was available in my country 🙁 ) and PassMark for some reason thinks the amount of RAM should be included in the score.
My temps are amazing (stay below 85 C) and I’m really happy with the end result. I used 1cm wide heatpipes (available from Conrad in Switzerland/Germany) and if I would do it again I’d buy the longest/widest they have – I think the more surface area the better. For another time I’d probably try soldering the heatpipes together using low-temp solder, but with my CPU which undervolts so well, things are great as they are.
Thanks again for everything, Brad.
One crazy idea I had was to add to the coolable surface area by either
a) retrofitting a different laptop’s cooler. In this case, at the very least you could try and cram in a larger diameter fan in there. More airflow?
b) glueing and thermally joining a slice of a donor cooler’s finstack to the MBX fan enclosure? More cooling surface area?
I’m not sure whether trying this would yield better thermals, and both approaches require a little DIY elbow grease. Maybe an angle grinder to a cooler? Which is why I was hesitant, since buying a new fan (if you don’t have a donor) probably wouldn’t be cheap and a bit involved, but it seems that wouldn’t hold you two back 🙂
You can find pictures on reddit of the Huawei Matebook D’s seemingly more robust cooling solution. Whish they had scaled that thing down and crammed it right in. I’d take the weight vs performance/thermals trade off any day. https://i.imgur.com/VQhVSK0.jpg
First off, thank you for all of the documentation. Super helpful!
Second, could you tell me a bit more about the 3 separate HPF’s in APO? Unless each is addressing one individual speaker, I believe they would be completely redundant.
Just a comment – many of these thermal pads are electrically conductive.Typically everything with graphite inside. This may cause EMI issues or completely ruin the system if applied directly on the motherboard. Consider adding warnings to the article for the young players which may not have a clue of what they are doing (like the guy above).
Just 0.02$ from an electronics and systems engineer who got tricked before 🙂
As far as I know, they can only tell the warranty status by the sticker on the SSD screw. If you leave everything visibly intact, they wouldn’t be able to tell. Removing the foam seal around the woofers is irreversible, so keep that risk in mind.
I’ve tried this several times. Does not work for me. Sensor was working fine with the default Win 10 Home, but when I wiped it to install Win 10 Pro – gone and I cannot get it to come back :/
The hardware itself is conflicted in device manager. Code 31, problem installing.
Good stuff. On a related note, I’m wondering if you’ve noticed a delay in “spinning up” the drivers to play the audio? I’m using the latest realtek driver. I tried mucking around with all the different drivers I could get working, and they all produced the same or worse results (sometimes including a loud crackle or click prior to playing the sound).
It seems like the computer turns off the hardware if it’s not being used for a few seconds. I’ve noticed if I have headphones plugged in, the white noise will stop playing a few moments after audio is produced. I haven’t had a lot of luck digging around online so I thought I’d ask an expert. It’s quite bothersome because the nature of some of my work involves playing a tone infrequently, and it is always delayed by about half a second or so.
Hey Brad, Will get my MXP i7 in 2 weeks, just wanted to maybe get some updates on how it’s doing. Im not sure about the first mod that brings the heat to the keyboard since the sheet is like 60 dols or so for 1 but most else i have already bought basically.
It’s great, nothing’s fallen out of place, so performance is still superb. Next I’ll add thermal pads to the keyboard-side fan casing like Adrian did. I’ll also add some lubricant to the fan bearing to see if it gets a little quieter.
Also not much has been talked about the GPU performance, you said something about GPU boost 3.0 but some hard number would be cool and maybe to know if some nice overclocking can be done to gain 5-15 fps on games would be great.
Also according to a few youtubers and after months rechecks it seems Liquid Metal seems to not do that much, i just hope this “cooper” is actual cooper or i’ll make a real dent on my cooler.
I have good results using liquid metal. I believe proper application is the deciding factor on how much improvement you get. I have used liquid metal for a few years now with no issues. Just don’t appy it to aluminum and you will be fine.
Hey brad, got my MBXP and did all the mods with LIquid metal except the graphite, getting about 71c max altho i seem to be still thermal throttling due to the GPU(PL1) when gaming and my cores drop from the 3ks to max 1700 (10fps lose, very annoying)
Maybe you could give me some input and reference on your temps and how to keep that cpu up, was kind of underwhelmed with the temp gains tho. Also can’t post a main comment… always get directed to paypal
Using AIDA64 it gets to about 72 max or so, i uninstalled DFPT(some other way since i have windows Home) and the cpu got a more decent 2.2 sustained(10w throttle) even tho throttle stop would still say throttle past about 70.
I suppose you reinstalled Win10 fresh(and pro) did you use the Nvidia site drivers or the stock ones?
Also could i get your email so we could discuss more stuff about it, that would be great.
So good news and bad news.
Yesterday I decided to download TS 8.70.6 instead of the 8.70 I had and put it on program files instead of Downloads, and well that seemed to work wonders and I was able to fully control my cpu up and down.
So today I open up and try to change profile and whatnot, but TS will not save or obey anymore (even tho I deleted the settings my undervolt and changes on TPL won’t change even with TS off) so I effectively can’t change shit no more…
So right… scratch that… TS only saves and works at all when on A/C Power, even if that option isn’t placed on TS… interesting, so much for managing battery on TS.
Edit: Nevermind, so on battery to get TS working “Best Performance” setting must be enabled, now the problem is SS 255 does not keep that core settled at 8 multiplier and instead jumps 9/11
So Victory, After all the kinks I did a Passmark 4384, slightly higher 2/3D marks due to a 200+200 OC on GPU and 15202 Disk Mark due to Stock Toshiba. Overall pretty awesome, Temps tho if I do 2.2 say my temps are 71/73, 2.5 and higher I get 80s, can you confirm if you get better temps at full blow 3.5+ on say gaming. That would be appreciated to see if I need to check my mods and all that.
Only weird thing now is I can’t seem to be able to Modify my PPL0 on TPL anymore, not sure if it’s due to deleting DFPT, and I wish I had written down the stock values… if you by any chance have them that would be awesome
I looked at the fan, and it seems to be possible to install metal plates between upper and lower metal parts of fan (something like regular laptop heatsink),this will give more cooling surface and lead to better heat removal (with heatpipes mod, of course).
What’s your opinion, guys? Will this really help?
It requires some metalwork, but i think with proper soldering skills it will be ok.
I don’t think I have the skills for that but I’d like to see someone try it. But the heat transfer to the fins needs to be very good or else the obstruction of airflow will outweigh the benefits. Also, because the fan will be pushing already hot air through the fins, the fins won’t be doing that much heat exchange.
Adding heat pipes helps a lot because, in the original state, the heatsink of cpu+gpu is not thermally connected to the fan at all. The design idea seems to be to heat up the air inside the machine and then exhaust using the fan. The heat pipes make a much more direct connection between where the bulk of the heat is produced and the exhaust.
I thought about adding fins as you describe, but with all the mods done + a good undervolt, I don’t think it’s necessary anymore.
i thought about the fins too, but yea i guess hot air already, but more than that, the top metal part of the fan i guess could be exchanged for a custom cut slim cooper replacement, should be too hard to make a copy with thin cooper and should get much hotter to dissipate better
Well, it makes sense. I gonna find some thin copper plate in my workshop, and try it. Some patience + hand jigsaw it will be ok.
Also i have crazy idea of re-winding engine of fan to make it spin faster. Like some guys rewind their RC model engines (they are actually the same principle) to modify their properties. It is kinda special electronic magic, and will probably destroy my fan, but… ima crazy.
Or maybe replace the fan with one more powerful, but of course it must fit into laptop. If smb have idea what can i replace for, please, share
Awesome, do take some pictures of it to share. Remember to try to disassemble the fan top part with care to use it as a base to cut the new one, ideally with all the tabs too. About the bigger fan, I think more than a more powerful or faster fan, the problem might be when the fan actually kicks in and at what force, if that could be tweaked to make it 10c sooner or so it should be somewhat better overall, Brad put some clues for it on top but it’s all too cryptic for me, maybe with a bit more guidance we could give it a shoot.
I think when i do some CPU/GPU-heavy stuff fan spins at max rpm anyway.
In any case, first i have to receive package with cooling stuff, and finish my semester.
I ll share the results later
I checked link above. Dissassembling DSDT gave me nothing, so i go ahead probing registers. First i write python script, that log data from registers for about 5 mins, while i was loading processor with AIDA. Result was, well, complete mess. On OY axis we have value of register, on OX – number of iteration. http://prntscr.com/lhrf0o
So i had to come up with some kind of heuristic filter to remove all that stuff. And my solution was throwing away all registers that more than 2/3 of time contain same value. The idea was when i load/unload processor, it is highly unlikely to have equal values in desired registers, because everything changes :))
Result looks like this and it a LOT cleaner https://prnt.sc/lhrh8g
After removing plots that dont correlate with time when i on/off loading, i got something like this http://prntscr.com/lhrlgj
And i really dont know what to do with it. Yellow line at the bottom seem to be temperature reading of cores, but i have no idea what to do with all other lines.. i need help here.
Looks like Huawei is doing their own fan control algorithm different from everything else. It doesn’t even seem directly correlated to CPU temperature, as the fan doesn’t spin up right away when the CPU gets to 95°C. Which is really dumb.
Ok then, I finally made some HW mods. First, I went ahead and make the fan’s upper casing out of copper instead of steel, like this http://prntscr.com/m7cquu
Then I applied thermal pad to lower casing of the fan and directly to insulating film on the bottom of the motherboard right under charging unit and processor (In your mod, padding is instead of insulator, but I had not enough thermal padding to cover everything, so I thought it is not very good idea to leave some areas uninsulated because of possible short-circuits). After screwing MB inplace I added remaining 0.5mm padding between charging unit and radiator panel. After this I installed additional heat-pipes to my new copper fan casing. Now it is a lil bit colder under load (from 70+ C to 63-65 C), charge a lil bit faster, but I got some really weird issue, here is my powercfg report. https://drive.google.com/open?id=1k8XD35dWouOa_z8x9_sVg4mS_hRdfC3Q
As you can see, on 1/12/19 i fully charged laptop (56 Wh), between 12th and 15th laptop was disassembled with removed battery. On 15th I switch it on and discharge it to 36 Wh, then shutdown the PC. Next morning I plugged charger in, laptop was charged to 77% and then immediately say that battery is fully charged. Now my full charge capacity is only 42 Wh and it don’t want to charge above this level.
What can be possible problem here?
Can not edit anymore, so new post.
Upd
Problem was solved by calibrating battery controller : let it fully charge. I used AIDA64 to control parameters of charging (incoming wattage and battery voltage, cus I thought that battery controler was damaged during the process, and u know, overcharging li-ions sucks). When incoming wattage drops to about 1.3wh controller realized that the battery capacity was a lil bit larger than he expected, and now it is really charged to maximum.
Nice copper fan casing! How did you do it so accurately?
I thought about it too when I saw Brads Video about the heatpipe connection. What do you guys think of a graphite sheet instead of the two additional heatpipes plus of course a customized copper plate instead of the stock fan casing. I would not have to mess around with thermal glue and paste then and the conductivity should be equally good, since you can use a larger surface of the heatpipes.
Of course: Thank you very much for this blog Brad, awesome guide, thanks for your time.
Heat pipes are much more effective than graphite sheet mainly because heat pipes have much more cross-sectional area. The graphite sheets are just too thin to compete.
First I bought 1mm copper sheet on AliExpress, then etched it down to the thickness of the stock casing (I was just pulling it out of etching solution time to time and checking against the stock casing). For an etching process I used water solution of FeCl3 (ferrocloride, this stuff used to etch PCBs).
After that I flattened small tabs on the sides of the casing, and glued the etched copper sheet and the casing together. Then I removed bulk of the material with Dremel, and fine-tuned the remainings with small files. To make square holes in the tabs I just drilled regular holes and then squarified them with files. And then I just bent that tabs on the copper casing into initial shape, as it was on stock casing, and that was it!
It is not that hard if you don’t rush. Remove the material slowly and everything gonna be OK.
I’ve been thinking about this Yuriy, and I think you’re right. The fins would still be helpful. The air is maybe 50°C, but we can get the fins to maybe 75°C. As long as there is some difference in temperature, the fins can be effective! I’m currently investigating whether we can connect a different antenna (which can be bought or salvaged from another laptop), so that the original antenna can be removed to make space for a fin stack. Alternatively, I’m also working on milling a fan cover + fin stack combo. Another alternative is, I’ve bought from small fin stacks that can be trimmed to fit inside the fan, especially since the 2019 fan is bigger.
This mod doesn’t involve breaking any warranty stickers. It’s reversible, so you’d just take the paper strip out and send it in. I’m not sure exactly how many of the MateBooks have this problem. I suspect all to slightly varying degrees. Some people just don’t notice it as a problem.
Hey I have a some small cracks in the screen of my matebook x pro. This prevents using touchscreen. I was wondering if you know a source for the part so I can fix it myself.
I just did this last night and it was easy. Just take your time when taking off the backplate since the clips could potentially break. Also I slid three pieces of paper in and that seemed to do the trick for me. Great read, great video. I’m glad I found a DIY’er for this laptop.
I am on 1.18 Bios and i constantly have this issue. Even when CPU is idle at 48-55 c charging gets stuck for hours and hours until i close the lid. It then charges, i think, normally…
Hello,
Thank you for the tip. Will definitely do that as my left speakers distort strongly. Do you know what torx screwdriver size I need to open the back? Also where did you find that white foam? Is it necessary? Thx and regards,
Yes, Apple pulled a MateBook this time. They gave 0 fucks about thermal engineering this time and just made it easy for themselves by using 7W CPUs. Weak.
Could you please show us in a video how you’ve opened the back of your MXP?
I’m a bit worried that I break something inside, but that rattle drives me crazy and your fix seems the only solution for it.
Hey, thanks for alle your work. It’s unfortunately not working for me. I downloaded all the driver´s, and just installed them in the order. I did not uninstalled them before.
Could it be that im doing something wrong ? My matebook i5 / mx150 is running on Windows 10 ver. 1803. I don´t know what to do. Thanks a lot. 4 sure there will be support from my side.
I just can’t belive I bought this like a month or so ago an in a couple months a new possibly much better one is coming. I mean I love my MBXP, but COME ON just look at those Fans bro, it’s sick…
However, I don’t understand why it didn’t take any effect since the first time installing it worked. I messed up with Razor Surround software, installed and finally removed it then Equalizer APO no longer work.
Thank You. I did things exactly as shown in tutorial and now it’s working perfectly! The sound of clicking is different, but getting rid of annoying rattling makes up for it 🙂
Love this website, I will do the physical cooling mod in future for sure. It is winter now, the keyboard still get pretty hot. Is there any option to add some heat insulation layer at keyboard backside to prevent the heat ?
Hey Brad, thanks for all the tips.
I wanted to ask about the gpu shim, I bought 0.5mm shims and they arrived a few days ago, I was going to do the mod, but i just realized that you updated the thickness to 0.3mm in your guide. Do you think i should get the 0.3mm shims or should I do it with the 0.5mm anyways?
Brad, I stumbled across your website here looking for ways to fix the trackpad. I tried the paper under the long skinny circuit board like you did, but it then made it very hard to press in the center of the trackpad. I tore the laptop cover back off and after looking at it for a bit, I found if you depress the trackpad and bend the small two metal ‘lips’ down towards the body of the laptop, it solves everything. My trackpad now works and sounds as perfect as it looks. I’d love to post a photo and show you what I’m talking about, but it really works great! Let me know and I can send it to you somehow.
Also, I bought some Kryonaut thermal compound and seems to be doing its job well. I actually don’t mind the sound of this fan, it’s more brown noise than white when running and I’m ok with that.. but I might try experimenting with the ITU soon.
Yes, please elaborate on how you did that.
I might actually give the Matebook a second shot, if I got a chance to own it without the annoying rattling sound everytime I slightly touch the trackpad.
Would be really interesting to know if they also did something to the Touchpad Rattle and if so, how to recognise the revised models.
I just returned my brand new Matebook x pro because of the touchpad rattle. It was so terrible, that the paper trick didnt fix it.
Is all that massive headpipery thermally connected to laptop lower part? It doesn’t seem to be, because when you insert additional heatpipes over stock one, it must ruin thermal connection due to additional space you’v introduced (about 1 mm).
If I’m correct here, why dont we connect it (i.e. using thermal padding) and allow to dump some heat to backside?
That would definitely help increase cooling capacity, especially when paired with a laptop cooling pad/stand, but I refrained from it to protect my thighs. Also, while it increases cooling capacity, it makes the original heatsink slightly less efficient by taking some of its surface area and disrupting the airflow over it.
I had troubles with the fingerprint as well recently. The guide did work in August 2018, but in December i couldn’t get the fingerprint scanner working again after another clean install. This time i had to manually update the Intel SGX driver in the Windows devide manager: In the device manager go to – System devices – right click on Intel SGX – and select “Update driver”. If something is installed the fingerprint sensor should work after a reboot.
Thanks
Hello.
Because I have not yet opened my Matebook Pro, but looking at what you did, I am considering it, I am not sure by looking at the photos how the GPU is connected to the heatsink. Reading your account I think you mention some kind of pad. Is that so? So, if I remove the top plate, I will have to get another pad, in case I cannot get a 0.3 copper pad? Can I use Coollaboratory Liquid MetalPad Thermal Grease Pad instead of the copper pad, or should I just use the THERMAL GRIZZLY KRYONAUT THERMAL GREASE over the GPU, or a THERMAL GRIZZLY MINUS PAD 8 THERMAL PAD 30X30X2.0MM ? I have not got much experience in this and I cannot get a 0.3mm Copper pad here, but 1.00mm and above. What would you suggest?
Without using any of the cooling but just by the Throttlestop software, I got my matebook x pro 8550U based, to hit around 4.200.
Thank you.
The thickness is critical. All those products are of a very different thickness and would not work. It has to be either 0.5mm thermal pad or 0.3mm/0.5mm copper shim.
This did not work for me either. When I first installed APO on Windows 10, it worked great but it suddenly stopped working for no apparent reason. Exactly the same problem on a different desktop with Windows 10 Pro (1803) 64-bit.
Tried this, didn’t work. Can crank the sliders up and down all I want but the audio stays the same. And alternative Eq APO install method breaks my audio.
i can’t use my fingerprint.I followed the guide but it doesnt work,in device manager the pc does not check the fingerprint,is an unkown device.How can i resolve?
Same problem here :-(… got a Matebook D i5 and with a Windows Reinstall fingerprint doesn’t work… tried to follow the guide “clean” and also with PC Manager installed and unfortunately is does not work. Can’t find fingerprint driver though – but according to device manager it seems okay? It is recognized as Goodix Fingerprint SPI device with driver version 1.1.13.14… anyone with ideas 🙂 ?
I had the same problem for my Huawei Matebook D i5.
By downloading the same drives in that order also solved the problem for me.
I just downloaded the driver for my model at: https://consumer.huawei.com/en/support/laptops/matebook-d/
Even though all the drivers were up to date, you still need to download them again in the order. I could not find the update for the Chipset, so i just skipped it.
I don’t recommend it because there is a risk of getting it elsewhere on the board and corroding something. It adds quite a bit more risk to the operation — all of the other steps except the fan glue mod are low-risk. You’re welcome to try it, although I wouldn’t promote it to my general audience.
Well, Huawei have probably been annoyed by this themselves, and they have surely seen your page, as I have. It would have been a gesture of kindness from Huawei, had they saluted your corrective action, thus they would have stood out of the crowd of vendors that never do that. I hope Huawei read this comment. Let me add that the next model should offer a somewhat extended frequency response. The current speakers do not properly reproduce the keynote of a normal dark male voice. I exchanged my old Samsung ativ 9+ with this unit, and the Samsung goes MUCH deeper. Take a look at that machine, Huawei. Make it even better! And by all means, if you like audiobloomer.com demo, ask me to offer it for Huawei as a built-in!
Brad, thank you!! My Matebook X Pro finally feels premium without the rattling touch pad. Your “easy paper method” worked like a charm. The “overall best method” using aluminum foil beneath the metal tabs didn’t work for me.
Hi! I was wondering, would the laptop still work if I removed the battery and kept it plugged in? I’ve done it on older laptops in order to extend the life of the battery and it’s worked without any change in performance. What do you think?
Yes, it would work, I’ve tried it on this. But the charger already stops charging the battery once it’s full. It’s smart. So it’s not a problem to begin with. Not worth the inconvenience.
Ok, yes, I have the charging set to 40-70%, but isn’t the battery still going through discharge cycles, which shortens its lifespan? Furthermore, the heat degrades the battery even faster, no?
In terms of battery: I use the i5 model since one year and I have to say the change in battery life is VERY noticable. I use it heavily every day and get less than 4h when fully charged (it was 7-9h when I got it under the same conditions)… I would love to change the battery, can you recommend any compatible models?
Published on 2019-01-29 as both Huawei Matebook and Honor Magicbook:
KPR-W09
KPR-W19
KPR-W29
KPR-W39
What could it be? New Matebook X non-Pro or Matebook D 15′?
Or maybe a new Matebook D 14′? – as that’s the only variant currently sold under the Honor brand: http://www.honor.cn/productsearch/tablets/
Personally I’m hoping for a premium Matebook D 14′ refresh with new AMD 3000 series APU.
I would guess it’s new MateBook D with 3rd-gen Ryzen as well, since the current Ryzen MateBook D is KPL (Kepler). The ‘R’ in ‘KPR’ probably stands for ‘revision’ or something like that in the same way that the 2019 MateBook X Pro turned out to be codenamed ‘MACHR’.
There again seems to be a camera drainage hole (centered towards the back), which suggests to me, they kept the hidden camera. For those wondering, where this is coming from: There is exactly sth like this on the current MXP which is descriped as the camera drainage hole in the user manual. In case you drop water on the keyboard, it drains away from camera to the table.
Apparently only a select few can BYOD (Android or iPhone). Tried to follow your advise and got this message: “Unfortunately, you’re not eligible to bring your iPhone right now. Right now, we’re limiting the amount of customers who can order SIM cards.” Of course after that verbal smackdown, they provided a link to buy and set up a NEW phone. Damn crooks.
I was wondering on the thickness of the oem thermal pads in the system.
I just purchased the matebook pro x i7/16gb/mx150 version and am planning on changing out the thermal paste and pads as I change the ssd.
Are the mx150 pads 0.5mm? How about any others? Mainly I plan to undervolt and run 2 power plans with throttlestop to keep heat down and battery life up.
Thanks for the great input. I will modify my matebook according to your suggestions. Is it possible to use Thermal Conductive Double Side Adhesive Tape like this one: https://www.amazon.com/10mmX25M-Conductive-Adhesive-Heatsink-Kaifa/dp/B01MZ3T26C/ref=sr_1_2
instead of thermal paste and glue for the heatpipes for instance?
Or would that affect thermal properties?
Just completed the mod and everything came out great! A massive improvement.
I was curious to see if anyone had tuned the GPU after performing the mod. My understanding is that the version of MX150 in MXP is downrated. Is it possible to boost the performance now that the cooling has been upgraded? What program is best for tuning a GPU?
Hi John. Did you apply all the steps as Brad shows? Could you please share with us how much improvement have you got. E.g. what is your stable CPU power and the corresponding CPU temps now? 35W under 90C?
I e-mailed him and he said that he don’t have a video of it, unfortunately. But he told me that I can check the repair video’s of the Macbook’s proberly..
And I did not buy a LCD. I found one on aliepress for around 260$, at the Huawei store here in the Netherlands they replace it for 439euro. I think I will not take the chance of fucking it up and bring it to the official repair centre.. :p
This worked for me!!! Thank you so, so much. This was really starting to get frustrating. My headset lacks a little punch in the bass department, so I was upset that the software wasn’t working initially. Thanks again!
This didn’t work for me, but updating to the latest windows release did (build 4019 I think). When I booted in the newest version fingerprint worked and keyboard didn’t, but I disabled fingerprint, rebooted, then reenabled it and everything worked.
Thanks for your posts and tutorials, they are really great!
There is something I’d like to ask you: when my Matebook X Pro is connected to the power, I can feel a “soft” but consistent and continuous vibration if I rub my hands on it. Well, of course the laptop is not actually vibrating, I think they are small electroshocks due to a grounding/isolation problem.
I’m in Italy, the power adapter supplied with the pc has only 2 prongs, so there’s no grounding at all (same as every smartphone and laptops, etc.).
Do you have the same problem?
Do you have any ideas/suggestions?
I have a technical question about PS’s compression. How effective is this compression? Is it better than something like XNconvert for example? That program offers 9 levels of compression and its free. I’m want to assume PS has as good or better compression than some of these free alternatives. Can anyone explain?
So with the 2019 verison coming and that new fan, I saw the picture of the inside and everything looks exactly the same except the fan is a bit larger taking up all the space.
I would love to be able to buy that fan and just strap it to my MBXP, wonder if that’s posible and where I could get it from.
Hi Brad, thanks for the mention of my fan idea in the guide. I have successfully applied similar procedures to other laptops suffering from too much heat such as a MBP 2015 and now the LG Gram17.
When the 1809 windows update hit I ran into troubles with my Matebook X Pro. It could not complete the update completely and I ended up with a botched system and had to reinstall windows. Is it maybe possible those DPTF registry blocks block larger windows updates? Maybe there was another cause, but it might be advisable to go back to stock config before doing the big windows updates.
I’m glad it’s now possible to lift the tdp limits with throttlestop only. However I can’t seem to figure out how to get all cores to 4.0. I know it worked in the past, but now everything I do leads to 3.7 GHz on all cores when the load is high. I think I am missing an important step. Do you remember what enabled you to make the higher multi-core turbo limits work?
Hey Adrian, I’ve never had problems updating Windows with the registry edits applied. I’ve been on 1809 for a very long time.
I don’t think I ever achieved 4.0GHz on all cores simultaneously under load. That shouldn’t be possible on a non-K processor. Depending which core’s frequency you’re monitoring, you may see one or two cores shoot up to 4.0GHz, but all other cores would have to remain lower.
I was wondering what kind of performance improvements I can expect if I were only to do the throttlestop undervolt & adding the heatpipes? To me these seem like the easiest mods to do. Do you have any benchmark results of just those mods?
Hi Brad. Firstly your step by step guide is excellent.
My objective is not to enhance performance but to simply make the matebook bit more comfortable to use. I find the keyboard gets too hot to the point where I can’t even rest my fingertips on the keyboard.
Therefore:
1) would your keyboard side Cooling instructions help with this?
2) if yes, and to save time and money, could I simply apply 0.5mm thermal pad across the whole backside of the motherboard? Would that be effective enough to reduce keyboard surface temperatures? Or would you still advise your method of a mixture of 1mm and 0.5mm
Hi Rob, I’ve put up my answers to your first two questions on the new FAQ section. There is no way to eliminate coil whine noise unless you want to replace the inductors on the motherboard or put glue over them.
Thank you. Going through the FAQ and mod guide now. Will have some follow up questions at a later point as I formulate a plan.
A challenge i face is sourcing materials here in the UK. I can’t seem to find the Panasonic graphite sheets here. Also, by any chance do you have a YouTube video handy on the graphite sheet install ? 🙂
It’s probably because you’re using some Windows 10 Pro / Enterprise edition, which has some Group Policies that may restrict the use of Biometric functions on your laptop. Also, you may have to manually activate the “Biometric support” in the Windows “services” of your Operating System. I had the same problem too, then I did it (after searching Google), and it works like a charm now! Good luck mate 🙂
I intalled NoDPTF.reg and I want to revert it how can I do it. I am trying to intall the driver DPTF but I cannot since I installed the NoDPTF.reg Thanks for your help
Deleting the Restrictions folder and deleting the items in that folder shouldn’t be any different unless you are trying to suppress any other non-DPTF devices.
Hi Brad,
Awesome methods for boosting the performance! I followed some software tweak and they worked really well.
I’m planning to modify the hardware next, and do you recommend applying liquid metal for this PC for cooling?
Thanks a lot from south of france, works for me!!!
I was so stupid to waste some hours to find issues in french language befor realize that maybe only 3% of informations are in french on web, thanks again!!
Hi Brad, Nice method for stopping the rattle. Another big issue that bother me is the awful palm rejection of the MXP. The pointer is actually moving around as I type these words down I’m not sure whether it just me that encounter this or it’s a universal problem, but anyway, is there any software tweaks that could fix this issue? Thank you a lot.
you could also fix the rattling by eliminating the root cause. The route cause is the gab between the switch and the touchpad itself. This gap is created by the spring, which is pushing the touchpad up against its endstops. The endstops are those little metal hooks between the little pcb and the edge of the frame. I bend them downwards using a little srewdriver just enough to eliminate the gab. Until now it works 🙂
Hi Brad, I can’t thank you enough for all the help you’ve been providing with the MXP. You helped me (and a lot of others) turn it into such a great laptop.
You mentioned that your REW file has a pre-modification measurement for those who haven’t done the sponge mod. Is this Stock Desk? How can I get an EQ correction profile .txt file from it? Also is the difference between pre- and post-modification significant or is it ok to not worry about it?
Edit: The values for the stock eq seem too high, especially ~100-200 Hz. Is there really that big of a difference between stock and modified? Here are the curves for reference.
Hi Brad, truly appreciate your help and all and you taking the time to create this guide.
I did almost everything on this guide apart from the graphite sheets as the company sent me some without the adhesive layer.
Im starting to think i have caused major damage to my Matebook as the loading circle appears for a second then disappers for two seconds and this happens continually on loop indefinitely .. apart from this my wifi keeps disconnecting and reconnecting over and over again. is there any way i can pay you to fix this for me .. theres no one willing to work on this laptop for me and i truly hope you can help as ill be more than happy to pay for your time .. please let me know if this is a possibility and provide me with some contact details where we can proceed on this .. thanks a million
Hi Brad，
I’ve applied the permanent method and used for a while, but recently the trackpad has been making a strange sharp noise if I click one side of it, also, I found that a small piece of stuff has stuck between the metal plate and the green PCB of the trackpad, so is there a way that could have the touchpad removed and reinstalled? Thanks a lot.
Hi Brad,
Have you ever encountered the limit “EDP other” when using the throttlestop? Mine has constantly reported this issue when running the TS bench, and the power limit seemed to be fixed at 25W, no matter how I change the setting in TPL. Thanks.
Hey Brad. Just thought I’d take the time to show some appreciation here. I must have been the 1 person who didn’t have any MBxP touchpad rattle at all, but every single other aspect of this laptop is now better because of you.
You’re very welcome Simon! I appreciate the support. Does your trackpad have a little give when you gently press down on it? Are you able to slightly depress it before it actually clicks, or does it not budge at all?
Please keep us posted on this! I also want a OnePlus 7 Pro. I currently have a fully paid off iPhone 7 Plus already on Xfinity…that I’d love to pop the Sim card out of and use on the OnePlus.
I have a 6T. I didn’t know any of this so I used to have an iPhone with Xfinity mobile and when I bought the one plus I just switched SIM cards. It worked exept for the fact that I don’t receive text msgs sms. I can send them but I can’t receive them. I initially thought it was the imsg from apple that is causing the problem but then I found out it’s the fact that they don’t support outside Android devices. People at the Xfinity store had no idea what a one plus is
I was out on holiday and my sister was using the laptop, when I return home, my matebook has a small crack on the bottom left side of the screen and it doesn’t display anything when I power it on. my sister said she dropped it, but who knows what else had happened. Im ready to buy another screen replacement, but I wanted to make sure that its the screen the is the problem. Im doing some test but I can’t verify if the screen is actually the problem, I tried connecting the laptop to external monitor using usb-c to hdmi connector and still doesn’t display anything when I turn it on, and will automatically turn off 20 seconds after turning it on. I was poking on some dots (right after turning it on) near the screen connector on the board to check some voltages and I can see 3.2V, 5V and 29V in there. but I don’t know if those voltages actually goes to the screen, maybe you can give some advise on what other test I can do to verify what is the actual problem.
Hi, thanks for the great teardowns and handy tips! I’ve also managed to revive the fingerprint sensor on my Matebook D 14 thanks to your software re-install order guide.
Have you considered doing a tear down / upgrade guide on the Intel-chipped Matebook D 14″? I have one with an MX150, I added a bigger SSD but that’s as far as I’ve gone with it.
Hey Brad, thanks so much for all your work tearing down and modding these Matebooks. I own one and followed many of your guides to mod mine. I heard from your video that you broke your old matebook X Pro, do you still have it? I’d like to buy the screen from you since mine is cracked. Let me know thanks.
I had set throttlestop to run automatically at log in before undercoating. Now whenever I log in I get BSOD bc it’s applying unstable undervolt settings automatically. Is there any way to fix this? I just need to kill the process before it stars but I can’t log in to do so as I only have a few seconds before it freezes.
Yeah, Im lookin forward to know. I made this mod myself (well, with more primitive tooling and a lot of hand-filing and hand-sanding) but I didn’t test before and after, so I really don’t know is there any performance gain.
Hi Brad：
I’d like to know what’s the function of the original isolation sheeting in the backside of the motherboard, and is it safe to reinstall the board without it? I did the keyboard side Collings but found out that it wasn’t quite effective, and the keyboard wasn’t functioning either, so I might need to remove the thermal pad. But I’m a little worry about running the machine without the isolation layer, so I wanna to confirm this. Thanks.
The sheet on the motherboard backside is for electromagnetic interference shielding. It’s practically insignificant; in fact the 2019 X Pro removed it.
Make sure the keyboard ribbon cable is connected properly.
Hey Brad, for the copper shims you linked on Amazon they seem to be much smaller then the one you’re using on your videos. Do you have the dimensions for the ones you used?
Wow, thanks for catching that! I didn’t notice mine were 20mm instead of 15mm. Looks like I linked the wrong one. Fixed it now. Shouldn’t be much of a difference anyway because the GPU die is much smaller than both.
hello i heard that you did a WDTVLive hack… well i have 2 question, what is in side of one of these devices, what are the real specs… it must have some kind of decent processor to be able to run movies. Second can i change the firmware to make a simple server that can run simple programs, say like a java or python code?
Hi, forgive my ingorance…
Would you please explain how you update each of the drivers?
In device manager I don’t see anything called Chipset. And when I download the drivers from Huawei site they are in .asc format which I don’t know what to do with.
I would really appreciate it thank you!!!
I repasted and put thermal pads on different parts of the heatsink but didn’t do the keyboard side mods for the VRM, unfortunately. What should I be setting my Turbo Boost Long Power Max to? With 30 my computer occasionally crashes while playing CSGO
Hi Brad
I unfortunately spilt some baby oil on the keyboard of my Matebook X Pro. It would boot up as the SSD couldn’t be found. However I fixed that using rubbing alcohol. But now some keys aren’t working x,c,v,m and ; plus ‘
A couple more wern’t going but I fixed those using the alcohol.
Any suggestions? And if I need new keyboard where do I get it from as I have looked on the net and can’t find anywhere.
Plus just now after my second reassembly, the main spkrs stopped going. Only the small tweeters work. Headphones go ok still.
Yikes. The tweeters and woofers for each side are connected via shared connectors. I had actually sold my old MateBook’s touchpad to someone who spilled on it. Check the white ribbon cables going off of it and the motherboard but it might be liquid-damaged.
I actually wrongly purchased it as i thought it was a normal thermal glue ( like yours) but its meant to put directly onto the shim and not the border? or could i use this silver epoxy as how u used the thermal glue?
I also have kyronaut.
Sure, it looks fine to me, but it might be slightly harder to remove just in case something goes wrong. I recommend using thermal paste for the shim’s face because it is more thermally conductive.
Hey Brad. Absolutely awesome website and your explanations are super detailed and clear. Have you ever run across a MBxP keyboard where the left control key creaks when you press it down? Maybe a clearance issue of some sort?
Great discovery! Keep up the good work. I found your post very interesting. 🙂
Blogs can be a place for collection of your ideas. Money should not be the main reason why people are blogging. Keep on discovering 🙂
Hey Brad! I’ve been viewing your amazing blog and is shocked by the theme and the posts you’ve made! Our seventh grade blogs are worthless to any of your eighth grade blogs! The sketches too! Anyway, you are a wunderkind on tech stuff and I’m supposed to write spots to improve for you! You’re flawless! That’s what’s happening! I don’t even know where you got your theme! O_O 😀 OoO OMGEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Thanks 小宝！You don’t have to be shocked at the theme, it’s just a theme called Edublogs Responsive, nothing special. All I did was put a bunch of floating Androids as the background. What you’re looking at is my design. It’s just a picture I created with Pixelmator (which means it’s PS’d). It’s fake, it’s just a design, and it’s impossible to make true on Edublogs.
I have the same motherboard as you and am having issues getting this to run. Did you use virtualbox to get things started and if so what image did you use
Hello Seathasky! It’s awesome that you are the first person out of my school to comment on my blog! It’s cool that you’re using the same board, and I’ll try to help you. Did you try flashing the patched ROM with AFUWin?
Didnt need to flash the rom apparently, but only issue now is getting the damn thing to install correctly. keeps saying “Still waiting for root device” any suggestions? can you post your kernal 🙂
heres a picture i took of it, any ideas?
http://tinypic.com/r/2d6wp38/8
Anyways, i got a unibeast usb stick now, problem is when i load it i see the apple screen for a split second and reboots. I probably need to patch my bios only issue is afuwinx86 crashes in windows everytime i try and use it. im curious how you g ot it to work
Maybe run afuwin as admin or compatibility mode?
Do you know the command to flash bios with afudos? afudos pmpatched.bin /gan in dos doesnt work
Sorry, I don’t know about afudos, never got that far on this. There’s a guide on ericthewino.com about patching the Killer’s BIOS.
I pmpatched the bios file from the asrock webpage, patched fine but when i try and use instant flash in the asrock bios, it wont flash. get some secure flash check failed? any help would be appreciated
Success, I got my bios flashed with afudos. apparently the xxxx.bin file had too many characters in its name. Flashed it successfully, put my unibeast usb stick in and booted with f11, BAM! everything works now haha! 🙂
Okay now im having issues in the installer itself, says osx failed to install. This is never ending 🙂
http://tinypic.com/r/kb6nms/8
Finally! Osx running perfectly and the killer nic Kext also works great. Just wanted to make a final post 🙂
Hi,
thanks for the very helpul informations on this page, sadly it doesn’t work on my killer board.
I have pmpatched bios and created all necessary sticks/files.
Problem is that the machine hangs at booting the installer with a kernel panic, no restart, have to kill it manually. I also tried different boot args..
Hope you can help me 🙂
Brgds – cococheaf
can you t ake a screenshot of your kernel panic, maybe i can help you.
hi, thank you, sadly i am not able to make a photo of the Screen at the Moment, since i am not at home for a while. but i assume i have problems with my 79×0 Card or BIOS. Can you eventually send me a copy of your pmpatched BIOS?
Thanks in advance – brgds. cococheaf
edit: got mail 🙂
https://onedrive.live.com/redir?resid=751C3DE93FCE4BA5!4403&authkey=!AAU4u8alKEuJkYc&v=3&ithint=photo%2c.jpg
This shit doesnt work on i7 4770k , gtx 780 , asrock z87 killer. I tried also to use the integrated hd 4600 but this wont help. When you want to install the OS from USB you see apple logo for about 0.5 sec and the PC reboots.
Any ideas ????
You need to patch your UEFI BIOS. I’m sorry that part of the tutorial is unclear. I will update it with specific instructions.
1. Extract your BIOS ROM with AMIBIOS Patch Utility.
2. Patch the extracted ROM file with PMPatch.
3. Flash the patched file back in with AMIBIOS Patch Utility.
You may need to look online for exactly how to do these steps, because I learned it from ericthewino.com and have now forgotten. Good luck!
I have two accounts on my device, yesterday I was using these without incident and they worked fine. At the end of the day I switched to the other account and it wasn’t working at all, so I ran the same fix to no ail, now more than just those applications don’t work…any advice?
This is such a good post! I’ve been curious about this every time I save in png. My question has been resolved. Thank you. 🙂
Run “Task Manager” , “File”, “Run new task” C:Users–“–Downloadsnode-v0.12.7-x64.msi
Create this task with administrative privileges
Wow thank you! I wonder how I didn’t think of that. I’ll update the post with your easier method. Thanks again for the tip!
Refuses to POST without a display? Wow, that’s certainly new!!!
Thank you!!!! This was driving me crazy. Simple fast and instant solution:-)
Thanks for your work) Sadly I can’t check how it works on my phone cuz txt file link is broken
Thank you for pointing that out! The link is now fixed.
Thanks for all the work! I’m a bit confused though. Is the equalizer set to Parametric EQ or Graphic EQ? After ABing the two, I found the Graphic EQ to be less veiled are more engaging to listen to.
Does this apply to CM 14.1?
This guide saved me a $100 trip to geek squad to do the same thing. Thanks!
This is a great guide, but even using the latest drivers I still don’t get a drive to install to. Any ideas?
what should i do if after selecting the Driver nothing hapens and still no harddrive appears?
work fine in MM sultan rom & nougat roms, thanks
Thanks man. It worked
using amarra for tidal and used your post to approximate the eq curve – albeit visually. Very impressed with the results. I never knew what frequencies were killing me sibilance-wise. helpful indeed. my sincere thanks, man!
Is your Hifiman HE-400i the newer version with 2.5mm connector and without the backplate?
Yep
Brad, do you think it’s possible that certain frequencies (especially the highs) resonate louder than others because of the ear inside the cups? Every sound test dummy I’ve seen (and home made rig) just has holes in the side of its head (or yoga block) and no ears! Also the way the frequencies are channeled into the ear canal by way of the ear contours/folds itself may cause a resonate frequency to develop for someone at 6K and another person at 8K.
The reason I ask this is because I ended up tuning mine by ear using a controllable sine sweep plugin and HOURS of computer time behind Fab Filter ProQ2 (trial). What I found was that there were nasty peaks at 6.2 and 7.2K for my ears which I cut hard and a complete null at 8.3 which I had to boost with a high Q value surgically. My hearing is good and I can hear all the way to 17K almost, so that’s not the issue.
After my initial post, I ended up modeling your exact settings in FFPQ2, and compared it to my manual attempt. Suffice it to say, the results of my manual tuning were subjectively better sounding to my ears than this guide’s settings. I’m thinking it’s either ear shape, unique anatomical sensitivities to certain frequencies, or poor QC on the cans by Hifiman. What thoughts have you?
your specific ear shape and ear canal will make the ideal curve rather personal. If you want a lot of technical information on those head dummmies (many are based on averages from the 1960s or ignore ears altogether) as it applies to HRTFs see here: https://core.ac.uk/download/pdf/36418235.pdf.
Your personal ear shape can cause frequency responses of more than +-5dB all over the frequency spectrum. Some of that you may normalize so it doesn’t really matter, some you may not. But it is personal for sure.
I get very good result with your files. Thanks for sharing. Now I no longer feel that Hifiman HE-400i is very bright on certain songs.
Same issue as @CP and @damn
Hi there,
I have similar problem/error. I am running W10 using Bootcamp in Apple MacBook Pro. I presume windows update could be the cause. I have tried few methods to rebuild the BCD but nothing works.
How can I fix this in Bootcamp or alternate ways.
Do you need a product key for Windows 10 Pro?
I don’t think you have to enter it at installation, but eventually, you’ll have to activate Windows, as always.
isn’t the inner fidelity graph for the he400? not the he400i? two distinctly different cans. Maybe it’s inferred because of the 2014 year moniker? I’m totally asking not suggesting. thx!
Perfect.
Thanks questions answered
Hi Brad, thanks for the config. Can you confirm that I remove everything in the Equalizer APO and then add the Convolver wave file? Or don’t i need to removethe standard pre-amp and config.txt?
It doesn’t really matter. You can remove them or simply turn them off, or you can even use them if you want. Play around with the Configurator! You might find something that you want to add. But for my configuration, you don’t need anything else.
Hey Stefaan, how’d you put the convolver wave files in Equalizer APO? I’m so lost 🙁
I’m pretty sure I have this working with JRiver and a text file created with Equilizer APO. In any event, Norah Jones sounds a whole lot less shouty now with the HE-400i’s. Many thanks…
This page is indexed first on google for ‘vlc windows scaling’ searches. Not bad for a school project site
Thanks, please post a screenshot on how’s it looking in current nightie!
Thanks for the suggestion. I’ve now updated the post.
Thank you! I tought that when i export it with smallest(slow) the image quality will be reduced.
How to use the file ? can i have any guide?
thanks a lot
Unfortunately for me the command:
“C:\drivers\Intel Rapid Storage Technology Driver\SetupRST.exe” -a -p “C\drivers\Intel Rapid Storage Technology Driver”
does not work.
It seems that Lenovo changed the package installer with different – now they use Driver Package Installer (DPInst) and there is no such command to extract the driver content…
Hi! When I try to use the wav files for the foobar convolver I get this error: “Could not initialize convolver (Unsupported format or corrupted file)”. Can you help me with this? Thanks in advance!
I get the same error as Staffador using these convolver files with the foobar convolver component. However I went back to your earlier post and those convolver files do work so there is something different with these impulse response files than the ones you previously posted for your earlier EQ settings. Thanks for sharing this work!
Hello.
Can you tell me where the bios battery is located on the board?
Happy xmas
Florian
Inspired by your code, I made a version that is designed to work with a config.txt file that looks like this:
Include: laptop.txt
# Include: bose.txt
# Include: sony.txt
# Include: logitech.txt
…
This format allows me to still be able to mess around with the config file via the graphical Editor program since each include statement shows up and can be toggled on/off with the mouse.
ahk code:
#1::
SetEqualizerAPOConfig(“laptop”)
Return
#2::
SetEqualizerAPOConfig(“bose”)
Return
#3::
SetEqualizerAPOConfig(“sony”)
Return
#4::
SetEqualizerAPOConfig(“logitech”)
Return
SetEqualizerAPOConfig(config)
{
filename := “C:\Program Files\EqualizerAPO\config\config.txt”
FileRead, contents, %filename%
; Exclude all configurations by commenting out each line starting with I.
contents := RegExReplace(contents, “(?m)^I”, “# I”)
; Include the desired configuration by uncommenting the relevant line.
contents := RegExReplace(contents, “(?m)^# (?=.*” config “)”, “”)
FileDelete, %filename%
FileAppend, %contents%, %filename%
}
Wow, great work! Thanks!
weirdly enough I just have all diffrent kinds of config files open as tabs in the APO config editor and I can update the settings there with no problem.
Hi Im very grateful for these settings. I am trying to copy this manually using an au eq plug on osx (Audirvana > Nova). I just wanted to ask what q value I should use for the shelfs (mine are set at 0.7)? Also do you advise to eq down all the way from the 20hz peak or just down at the 8khz peak and eq up for the bass?
Kind regards Lloyd
Copy C:\Drivers\IRST\source to USB.
I am also in the same boat as Staffador and mrdave witt the issue regarding foobar.
Has anything been done to remedy this situation as reported in 2015?
It looks like Gigabyte has finally added this feature on their new motherboards. I don’t think they’ve done anything to update the previous ones though. I had already sold my GA-Z97X-Gaming GT and bought a used Asus Z97 VII Hero instead. I’ve been a happier person since.
Same problem here! The last Logitech Options update that offers “continuous scrolling” on MS Edge is the 6.70.1055 for me. I got only a formal answer from Logitech 🙁
Hmmm
That does not seem to cool 8th u processor heat enough
How is it?
Great tutorial!
When I was trying to remove bottom cover in my unit I noticed that something is keeping it attached to the rest of the computer in the very middle (after prying all of the plastic tabs on the periphery off). I didn’t dare to pull too hard. Did you experience something similar? What was your solution?
Just pull it with even pressure on both left and right. The middle hook is spring-loaded.
With the gap on the igpu any recommendations for another thermal pad or think it possible to use a combination of both to improve the temps? Awesome job on the teardown,
I wonder how well this would work: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CZctyucIouU
Interesting find, this may work as well if you dont want to deal with any mess
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CKVW18G/ref=crt_ewc_title_dp_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A2EPY4D0EP33QL
Have you tried installing ubuntu 18.04 LTS? I’m interested in getting this laptop if it works with ubuntu.
I installed Ubuntu 16.04 on it and EVERYTHING worked out of the box. First time that has ever happened. Brightness / sound adjust buttons, Wifi, bluetooth…. it runs really good and ubuntu looks really good in 3k resolution!
Hi Brad, I tried this but did not seem to work. I probably did not put the paper in between the right layers? Could you post more description, or better yet more pictures or a video? Thanks!
I updated the post with a video now. Hope it helps!
You’re awesome! After watching your video, I realized that I mis-understood your picture – the most important part is to get a piece of paper in between the hole in the front and the frame. The ‘tail’ of the paper doesn’t matter – it’s the small piece under the hole that makes the difference.
I tried to use a thicker piece of paper (index card), but that seemed to jam the mechanism, and after closing the lid I could no longer feel a click. I tried putting tiny pieces of electrical tape under the feet of the metal plate (there are 2 – just visible on the bottom and lower-right edges of your pic), but this didn’t work either – couldn’t feel a click.
I think your fix is the only thing I’ve tried so far that works. You just need a thin piece of paper in the right spot. I’m disappointed in Huawei’s QC though. Hopefully your fix holds up!
I noticed you’re showing a PM981 in the picture of the M.2 slot. Is that the drive that shipped with the Matebook?
Oops, I am so sorry. Now I realized that my X Pro did actually come with a PM981. I didn’t even notice when I took it out and replaced it with my larger 1TB 960 Pro!
Had current throttling, now after reinstalling intel thermal framework i get power limit, no matter the watts in xtu.
I suspect it’s some mosfets or something though, just got that feeling running benches and monitoring clocks, throttling ect.
I bought some thermal pads, will try it out tomorrow.
Hey Aaps
Is there any update regarding the matebook x pro?
Btw, any updates? 🙂
I have the same issue. Love the notebook. I think it fits my needs better than my xps 9550. Besides the rattling track pad, I haven’t had any issues. I will be trying this mod this weekend, sometime. I will try to post some pictures.
What size are the screws on the bottom panel? Torx T5?
It’s actually somewhere between T5 and T6, but both will work.
Hey Brad did you have to rip off the rubber feet in order to open the back of the Huawei laptop? I know you had to remove the rubber feet on the old one in order to access the back panel.
No, refer to this my friend http://bradshacks.com/matebook-x-pro-teardown/
Great thanks Brad. Last question since you switched your ssd for a Samsung Pro 960 have you noticed a difference small or big with performance in regards to day to use of the laptop? Or any differences in general at all since the switch?
Nope
Thanks Brad I was considering buying a Samsung 970 or 960 Pro to replace the 512 Toshiba that came with my laptop since the read speed sucks but I don’t use it for anything main stream. Just Basic use from web surfing, university projects, and music. But if its not worth it since no noticeable change is seen then not worth me wasting money.
Does the i7 CPU hit 4 Ghz? I work a lot with data, but I’m considering getting the i5 versions if the difference in speeds isn’t that great, though the lack of RAM upgradeability gives me pause…
It hasn’t for me, but surely 3.9GHz.
Correction: I actually hit 4.0GHz. I have MSI Afterburner display the CPU usage, clock speed, package power and temperature in the notification area, but it shows frequency in MHz and truncates all but the first 2 digits. So it was trying to show 3978MHz or something like that but I only saw “39”. Recently, I looked at HWiNFO instead and realized it did hit 4.0Ghz.
What did you end up getting and how’s it working out for you?
Are there any cooling solutions for the MOSFET? Thermal pads or something that can be applied?
You mention that there’s too much space between the heatsink and the MX150 to use thermal paste, How thick/thin of a thermal pad do you recommend to use here?
I had some leftover thermal pad product from a previous project and it seemed to work just fine after being cut to size. This is what I used and was 0.5mm thick: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ZSJRH22/
0.5mm works well for me.
I don’t see 1 woofer,1 tweter and passive radiator?But I know,Bose sound is good.
You can apply thermal pads
@Brad Is there a reason you went for a 0.5mm thick thermal pad? Can a thicker one be used? Also I was looking into Graphite Thermal Pads which have thermal conductivity of 35W/m-k, versus the 17 of the Fujipoly XR-m, do you know anything about these?
I think 0.5mm is closest to the original GPU thermal pad. I fear IC Graphite might be too thin for the gap between the GPU and the heatsink.
Is it possible to buy a single large 0.5 mm sheet and stack it to 1.0mm and 1.5mm? It’s very expensive to buy multiple sheets with various thickness.
Yes, that works, but you lose some thermal conductivity to the gaps between layers. It’s an acceptable tradeoff if you’re budget-conscious though.
Then I wonder why you use only 0.3mm copper pad in your guide? Or are you saying the IC Graphite is too thin for the gap if you use this for cpu too? This might raise the overall distance of the heatsink. How flexible do you think the heatsink is?
It would probably be the best to use thermal paste on cpu and graphite pad on gpu..
The GPU originally has a 0.5mm thermal pad. 0.3mm copper shim is closest to that considering copper does not compress. CPU continues to use thermal paste.
I tried using only thermal paste on GPU; it wasn’t enough to fill the gap. IC Graphite wouldn’t either.
Some things just doesn’t make sense to me, please try to explain it.
You have used mostly 0.5 mm thermal pads around heatsink, which is completely reasonable how thin laptop is. But as we know GPU hole is a bit deeper, why did Huawei used only 0.5mm thermal pad originaly, isn’t that also a bit too far from the heatsink?
If I go by that logic, I should try to use 1mm (or even 1.5mm?) arctit thermal pad on GPU hole, and would gain better results with the original one? Probably result won’t be as good as your mod with another layer of copper, but should be still quite better than stock pad, which seems too thin?
What do you mean by “GPU hole”? There is no recession in the heatsink for the GPU.
Heat transfer is inversely related to thickness. As long as it’s making contact with a good amount of pressure, it’s not advantageous to go thicker than necessary. https://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/conductive-heat-transfer-d_428.html
Thanks Brad for answering.
Oh I’m sorry, I thought there was same bend-in small hole for where GPU touches heatsink base plate, my bad.
Now I get it – you actually add copper shin because you have added thermal pads almost all over the heatsink base plate on the bottom, so that it evens out (doh). And since Thermal pads are soft and you can squeeze them a bit, copper shim is suppose to be a bit thinner. I hope I understand this correct:)
But still what I don’t get it is that, there is 0.5mm thermal pad as stock, isn’t that uneven to begin with, and is suppose to be 0.5mm thicker in GPU area by design?
OK now the main question, in case you don’t do copper shim mod:
a) If I use 0.5mm thermal pads around the heatsink base plate as you did, I should use than 1mm thermal pad for GPU? In that case height of base plate should be the same as original?
b) If I don’t put any of thermal pads on bottom of hearsink, could I just add good thermal paste on GPU, since bas plate won’t be any higher than stock elsewhere?
And extra question – In case of b) (so without extra thermal pads on bottom of plate), does it makes sense to put them on top of heatpipe, so it dispenses even more heat away from CPU and GPU? Yeah bottom of laptop might get a bit hotter, but chips should run even cooler. In many video I saw that type of applying thermal pads (for different laptops though), I have also done like that in my ex XPS 13 and it worked really well in term of CPU temperature (20-25 degrees celsius lower in idle already than stock!). 30 vs 55 degrees difference. And all I have done there was a fresh MX-4 and thermal pads on top od heatsink.
Just a small note – by applying thermal pads on heatsink I meant only on part where CPU is, and at the end, near the exhaust from fan, I realize design is completely different in MBX, but it might help when applying it on correct part of heatpipe?
On the July 7th update, did you use the same 0.5 thermal pads again? Or did you get something thicker? Also, after doing that and taping up the fan area, did you notice decent temp changes?
If you remove the plastic film, is that permanent? Or can it be put back if needed? Also, how do the thermal pads stay in place on the back side of the motherboard? I thought they generally don’t stick, or are they thick enough to sit against the body without moving?
Thank you for all these guides, I really appreciate it!
If you remove the plastic film, is that permanent? Or can it be put back if needed? Also, how do the thermal pads stay in place on the back side of the motherboard? I thought they generally don’t stick, or are they thick enough to sit against the body without moving?
Thank you for all these guides, I really appreciate it!
The Minus Pad 8 that I’m using is soft and sticky, much stickier than Fujipoly. They do stay in place.
Why did you pad the backside and not the frontside? Wouldnt that make more sense to get contact to the heatpipes?
Yes, I did try to pad the front, but I couldn’t get the pads’ thickness right and the CPU contact was suffering. I might try again later.
I see that you changed your thermal pad. Is the TGX series worth it over the grizzly one you were using earlier? It’s more expensive/a little more difficult to obtain.
With the removal of the plastic film from the motherboard, I’m going to take a wild guess that’s not only going to void the warranty but its probably not something you can put back on correct?
Also, what do you think about using 0.5mm copper shims with the kryonaut thermal paste? Could that possibly yield better results than thermal pads for the gpu?
Thanks for all the work you’ve put in for this device!
I will test TGX against Minus Pad 8 on the GPU soon.
Yes, most of this stuff voids the warranty. You could probably stick it back on but it might not look as nice.
Thanks for the copper shim suggestion! I was initially afraid that its hardness may damage my chip, but I’ll try it anyway for the sake of science.
What size are the screws on the HeatSink ? It is very hard unthread ,…Unfortunatly , last night I destroyed one of volt head .
So i cant detach heatsink from motherborad.
Would you recommand a screw size for detaching heatsink .
And i want to buy bolt for replace. Do you know spec. of bolt in detail ?
My PH0 bit fits the screws perfectly. Unfortunately, laptop screws are proprietary nowadays and your best bet would be to contact Huawei and see if you can buy from them.
Hi. In using the processor graphics voltage offset I have reached -1.00V and run stress tests with no issue. This number seems much higher than yours and I wanted to make sure that I wasn’t missing something or if I should not have it that low. Let me know what you think. Thanks!
Definitely not normal. Your settings probably didn’t apply for some reason.
Hey Brad,
Can you let me know which graphite sheet you ordered and if you can provide some images of how you implemented them when you get them.
Have you measured the CPU and GPU speed? Did the modification make any difference? This is quite some change to the hardware, so I would not consider anything like this if it does not give you dramatically gain performance wise.
I just ran a CPU stress test (i7/16GB/512GB/MX150) with Intel Extreme Tuning Utility (the [SW] Undervolt mod applied) but the CPU still hit 85°C. Even when I’m just surfing the web I can’t place it on my lap unless I wanna have my balls hard boiled…
How hot does your CPUs get? Fan is almost constantly whirring…
That’s normal considering how puny the MateBook’s cooling system is.
Mine gets up to 95C thanks to the power increase mods.
How do you get XTU installed? Mine saids “Attempt to install on an unsupported platform.”
yup, same here.
Hey Brad, you think i could use the fujipoly pads and add some kryonaut paste to make contact better, I already bought them, dont want my money to be wasted. Thank you for your work.
Sure, that sounds like a very good idea.
Hey Brad, my apologies if this is not best place for this question but couldn’t find an e-mail to get in touch..
I live in Thailand and the Matebook X Pro hasn’t been released here yet so I am planning to buy it in China in a couple of weeks and wondering about the process to change the language to English (read in a reddit thread post that you went through this). Do I have to buy a brand new Windows license or there’s another way? Also, do you know if the chinese warranty will be void after doing this? Contacted Huawei support in HK by phone and he believed it would be void if I re-install Windows.. he didn’t sound so sure about the information tho and it seems unlikely to me that would be the case. Anyways, any thoughts would be greatly appreciated!
Cheers,
Daniel
I highly doubt that reinstalling Windows would void the warranty. When you send a device in for warranty repair, they won’t care to check your Windows license.
Hey Brad, do you run into the issue of your Matebook not charging when running intensive applications?
Yes, the charging rate is temperature depedent — charging throttling, if you will. I’m working on heatsinking the charging circuit right now.
How much room is there between the heat-spreader and the lid?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RhT4uz6OwNQ
The video got me thinking whether bridging the heat-spreader with the fan would help further reduce temps? ebay has some 90x5x1mm heat-pipes that would be right up to the task.
Right on point! I’ve been thinking about the same thing and I’m gonna try that next.
Hey do you happen to have any benchmark results for before after your mods in terms of performance
If possible the temperature delta those mods make?
Thanks heaps, appreciate your work!
Hey Brad!
I would be curious to know what kind of changes you have seen in performance/temperature as well after doing all of these mods to your rig. Just bought an MBXP myself and would love to get a little more out of it, especially with the games I have on it; however, this is all a bit over my head. Have you thought about doing this to other peoples computers as a service? I would definitely send you mine and pay you to do the same to it, assuming you are yielding some pretty good results with yours. Let us know if you dont mind. Thanks for all of your hard work!
Dustin
Hi Brad,
Could you please share the amount of performance gains you’ve achieved after your mods with a little bit more detail?
I’m not sure what to choose between the MBXP with mx150 or the Thinkpad t480s with the same specs. The Thinkpad seems to have the best thermal performance in the market, able to run at full turbo boost (3.4 Ghz for the i5-8250u version) for an hour without any thermal or power limit throttling. I’m curious about your results when running back to back Cinebench tests. how much turbo is this machine able to maintain in the long run when all the cores are busy? if you share the stable temperature, test scores, and the cpu speed after 5-10 minutes of continuously running Cinebench it would be a great help 🙂
Thank you for sharing your amazing work with us.
Hey Brad,
Thank you for posting this thread!
Since Huawei only allows to install drivers through Huawei Device Manager now, I have a problem to install these recommended drivers in given order. Can you please help me to solve this issue?
Cheers,
Lazar
I’ve updated the post, let me know if it works for you!
It’s working! Thank you so much!
You write that you updated the post. But in what way? Still I don’t find a way to install the driver in your recommended order. The Huawei Device Manager has it’s own internal order which I can’t influence.
My posts says to get the drivers from Huawei’s website. That way you can install them in the special order.
oops! Now I found the indivual drivers on Huawei’s website listed below separatly for download. After following your installations order everthing works fine now. Thank you!
hi Brad am stuck i cant find the drivers from huawei website
can you help please
Very interesting guide! I was wondering why did you go for dissipating extra heat via keyboard instead of the back of the computer. After all they keyboard mod is harder to implement and plastic air filled keys will provide natural insulation limiting the effectiveness.
I also noticed that the DPTF step of the guide only includes instructions on how to avoid driver reinstallation, but seems to be missing instructions on how to disable DPTF.
Sadly, the “proper” heatsink the laptop already has just can’t dissipate that much heat, so I’m using the aluminum body that runs through the keyboard area to share some of that load. I also found that Huawei put a graphite sheet behind the keyboard to spread the heat a little bit.
I found that checking “Also apply to matching devices that are already installed” when setting the Group Policy happens to be a shortcut for uninstalling the DPTF devices. It’s a handy alternative to manually uninstalling them in Device Manager first.
Thanks for the clarification! I was suggesting connecting the heatsink to the bottom chassis with thermal pads.
That’s a great idea, but the downside is it disrupts the airflow of the original cooling system, and/or there is less heatsink exposed to the internal air chamber. Overall cooling would improve, but the original cooler would become slightly less efficient. However, if you don’t lap your laptop much, your method is definitely viable!
I got a question regarding the thermal glue. Any reason not to just apply the kryonaut thermal paste on both sides with the copper shim, instead of using the glue?
To prevent the shim from sliding away. This is a good precaution in a device that gets moved around.
Actually, you can use thermal paste and use the thermal glue on the edges to secure it.
Only thing I don’t like about the glue is that it’s probably not going to be removable correct? If you have already done this, did you notice a difference in termps compared to the thermal pads you were using?
Thanks again for all the great work!
It worked, thank you so much!
Hi Yannik Yo! I am Bunhong may you help me please? I just reinstalled the window 10 pro on my Hauwei Matebook x device but now the fingerprint doesn’t work! I have installed all drivers above but it still not work!!
Worked great for me! Thanks!!
Worked for me as well – did a fresh install of the latest Win 10 ISO and my fingerprint sensor wouldn’t work regardless of having the latest drivers installed by Huawei’s PC Manager.
Went through the list included here one by one and it worked.
I did NOT reboot between each driver installation but did at the end, and it worked so don’t waste that time, although it does boot quickly.
Yes agree with you about the warranty, don’t think it will be void after reinstalling Windows.
Anyways I decided to try and just bought it, now I have to change the language from Chinese to English, do you mind sharing how you did that?
Thanks,
Dan
hey Brad,I think you could replace the top heatpipe with a 45 degree bend so it would be more paralel with the bottom one on the cpu
I don’t know man, it looks a bit too flat to bend in that direction…
Hello Brad,
I tried this fix and seem to log sensitivity when clicking and especially click when dragging upward to near the top of the touchpad. Is that par for the course for this fix?
Working perfect!
Thanks!
Quite strange. Surely they’re not going to try to cool the MX150 model in the same way?
I see that actually is the MX150 model, but on doing some more research I think you may have missed one thing, there are actually fins under the heat plate before the fan, thus it is actively cooling fins, just by sucking rather than pushing. I don’t have one on hand but this is from notebookcheck, unless these fin looking things are just fasteners or something?
https://www.notebookcheck.net/fileadmin/_processed_/1/5/csm_MG_2632_a0b2755c9c.jpg
Unfortunately, those pointy things are the pins for the battery connector. Help yourself to the picture of the heatsink backside in the Electronics section.
Love the guide, it gets better by the day.
I see the shopping list now, do I need everything in that list or can I use just Arctic thermal pads in the various sizes. The stuff on Digikey is very expensive ($138 for thermal pads?).
Sorry for the super late reply, but you could use Arctic for everything, it would just be slightly worse thermal conductivity. But yeah I understand that much money for thermal pads is kinda crazy.
Hey Brad,
Recently I’ve got a problem with headphones buzzing noise. I tried to update driver, reinstall it, but without success. Every time I plug the headphones into jack I get same buzzing frustrating noise.
Do you have any suggestion how to solve this issue?
Many thanks,
Lazar
Motherboard design flaw: power circuit is right next to audio circuit, causing lots of interference. Maybe more shielding between them would help, but I’m not sure.
Thanks so much for sharing this! I agree, this new EQ makes the he400i sound much more natural (especially for vocals). I’ve used your settings as a platform to EQ the headphones to my music / tastes. It’s been a pleasure seeing this EQ evolve over time and hearing your thoughts on the justifications on the changes.
On another note, have you done any modifications to the headphones?
Glad you like it! I took off the filter fabric on the outside under the grill. It slightly expands the soundstage.
Thank you Brad for your prompt reply! I solved the problem after uninstalling Realtek driver and installing it from Huawei website. I got an option to choose (after plugging headphones) headset or headphone in notification panel.
Cheers
did you got the i5 or i7? i got the i7 8 GB RAM and 512 GB. Updated the Driver but still whistle on some audio playbacks. you can clearly hear it if you the music is very “quiet”
Hi Brad,
Impressive cooling mods, thanks for sharing the detailed guide with us.
I’m quite interested in seeing the CPU + CPU temps behavior as well as GPU+CPU behaviors under combined load.
Would you please share the XTU curves with which you got the 1093 score ? Mind doing a 3dmark Firestrike and share CPU+GPU temps and if possible curve ?
Seeing the MBXP (passive) cooling, I am perplex it would sustain GPU+CPU sustained load (hence I’d be considering the non-dGPU version).
Thanks!
Hi Brad. Awesome guide! I did some of the mods now, the GPU shim and some thermal pads. I used arctic everywhere because the high-end stuff is just too expensive. I only padded the hot parts because I think some airflow should remain and I’m scared parts that would be normally cold could get heated unnecessarily. I am still waiting for graphite sheets and heat pipes. I am seeing much improved GPU and SSD performance from the shim and thermal pads.
About the graphite sheets: These make a bit worried about heating the battery to 65 degree celsius on every heavy use as I guess it basically draws heat from the keyboard to the battery area. Are you not worried about this – especially combined with the completely restricted airflow from the full board padding?
Overall I expect the heatpipes will make the biggest difference, but to get better temps and maybe even more performance, the FAN itself probably would need to be upgraded. Or it should at least have some denser fins that would allow it to pick up more heat from the heat shield/heatpipe/fan case combo.
btw. after the heatpipes are installed.. can you still remove the motherboard from the machine?
I’m so glad it’s working out for you!
The graphite sheets are applied onto the chassis and not directly on the battery, so the battery has not that much thermal contact with it. But your concerns are definitely valid and your decision is wise if battery lifespan is a priority.
The thermal glue that I used is fairly easily removable, plus I used only thermal paste between the heat pipes and fan, so the heatsink can lift right off with the heat pipes.
Hi, I’m a little confused as to how to unplug the battery. Do I need to remove the heatsink first, and then unplug the multicolored cables? (Assuming the multicolored cables are the battery connectors. )
Any way to unplug the battery without dismantling the heatsink?
Nope, sadly the battery connector is underneath the heatsink.
The low frequency roll-off on my HE400i headphones drives me nuts. I’ve been playing around with equalization curves to compensate, and will try these when I get home. One question, though… Don’t we need to add a command to the Equalizer APO file to lower the gain, to avoid clipping? These settings are going to add eight to ten decibels on the low end.
The shopping list mentions 2.0 mm thermal pads, but I cannot find anywhere in the guide where you used them. Did I miss something?
It’s in the picture in the Heatsink-Side Cooling. It’s only for the transistors of the charging circuit. You could save a ton of money by stacking two 1mm pads instead of getting the 2mm.
On my unit, there were already 2mm pads installed on that spot.
Yeah and I’m replacing it with better thermal pad.
Hey brad! I tried installing APO, then set it to control the speakers, reboot, then fiddled with the EQ and preamp but am not having the sound reflect any of the changes. Any ideas? what are your settings with the configurator?
Let me know if this works for you http://bradshacks.com/fix-equalizer-apo-windows-10/
Hi, please can you tell me how did you import the data from rtings? I need to make a eq settings for my game zero headset
I’ve undervolted the “processor graphics voltage offset” to -0.100V already and I’m scared to go any further because you had to stop at -0.050V. Am I doing something wrong or is my unit somehow different from yours? 5min stress test ran fine and I don’t see anything unstable. Should the laptop freeze or crash or what am I testing for? CPU limit was -0.100V, same as yours.
Cheers
Brad, I now got all the parts, but a question arises.. on the backside of the motherboard, did you remove that foil that is there by default before padding everything with thermal pads?
..and one more. did you remove the original heatspread material over the keyboard area before applying the PGS sheets or just added them on top?
Added them on top
Thanks!
Looking at your padded motherboard backside image it seems like you removed that foil (aluminum?). Could you confirm that as well? I’m scared to do it because it seems besides spreading the heat a bit that foil maybe provides ground to a few connectors? On the front I see that you left the similar shield above the usb-c and charging circuits intact.
Thanks for help…
Ok got it.. shield needs to be removed. I did all the hw mods now, but using arctic everywhere. I only used two PGS sheets as it felt like the middle one would just move heat to the underside of the touchpad where it has nowhere to go. Additionally I added a 0.5mm pad to the “underside” of the fan in the hope heat would get removed more directly from the motherboard underside.
The heatpipes make an amazing difference! Highly recommended. I did wonder whether it would maybe be possible to use PGS to move heat to the fan casing instead of the heatpipes. Answering my own question from earlier I believe it’s possible to remove the heatsink together with the fan after the mod if one first detaches the fan wires.
Working below the motherboard I had some issues with bad connections after reassembly. So if anyone does this, check all those tiny connectors are properly attached. I reassembled the whole thing 3 times because of bad connections for camera/touchscreen and once I forgot to plug in the keyboard.
SW-wise I don’t feel comfortable to remove the intel thermal framework. Using throttlestop it seems possible to lock thermal limit 2 giving 25 W instead of 10W. This gives my 9219 in PassMark9 CPU.
Reading on the web about some atom tablets and laptops with the i5-8250u it might be possible to overwrite the BIOS tdp values using RWeverything. If anyone would find the correct offsets this could maybe give fully configurable TDP.
With the GPU thermal mods there seems be a lot of headroom to get more GPU performance. Using MSI Afterburner it is possible to boost the VRAM clock by 1000 MHz (no choke!) and using the freq curve editor and a mostly flat curve at 1700 mHz, the MX150 manages to often stay at that frequency. This gives me 2395 points in the passmark9 3d test even without the CPU at its full potential.
Brad, thanks heaps for your very inspiring guide!
Wow, this is awesome! I’m so glad it’s working out for you.
The fan underside cooling sounds like a great idea! I hadn’t thought of that before. The graphite sheet and laptop case can transfer some heat to that side of the fan casing – brilliant!
If I were you, I wouldn’t go through the trouble of modifying the BIOS because DPTF is the one setting the TDP/power limits.
You’d want to benchmark the GPU at various VRAM overclocks because you may lose performance to error correction when VRAM is overclocked too much. Make sure you find your sweet spot.
Yes.. I guess the hard part is finding the sweet spot where the underclock maximizes what we can get out of the 10W. I had 1700 mHz and +1000 on the memory, but that lead to memory corruption and hard crashes and now I’m running 1650 mHz CPU and +500 on the memory and that seems stable and performance is similar. Before all the mods I got really bad FPS in games after a few minutes and now it seems really stable with the GPU staying at 70 degrees.
The fan thing: I’m not sure which way the heat will actually flow.. maybe it also leads more heat going to the case from the top side. In any case I’m pretty happy with temperatures, but things might change again once I maybe still block DPTF.
I would prefer a configurable solution to the tdp thing and that’s why I don’t like blocking DPTF. Once it’s fully disabled, can you still limit the CPU to 10W if necessary (for battery life)?
Of course! The whole point of disabling DPTF is allowing you to set your own TDP in XTU. I have it at unlimited but you can set 25W, 10W, or whatever else!
Ok so I went there and got rid of DPTF and now I’m almost able to match your benchmark results. I do seem to get some different throttling though.. the package power in ThrottleStop never surpasses 38W and depending on what load is used, the cores sometimes reach 3.7 GHz and sometimes just 2.5 – so something else seems to be holding them back besides PL1/PL2. Or maybe the unlimited current limit somehow isn’t really applied by XTU.
I think maybe I’m using a newer BIOS than you because I can’t find any other difference in our setups anymore. I updated to 1.17. What did you use when you did the benchmarks?
Hmmm… I was using 1.12. What are the performance limit reasons according to HWiNFO?
I checked with HWInfo and I’m getting various ICCmax and “IA: Turbo Attenuation (MCT)” as the limit reason although I set all ICCmax values in XTU to 255 A. So maybe changing the ICCmax is no longer possible even with DPTF disabled.
I did some more tests and was finally able to lock the CPU at 3.7 gHz / 4.0 gHz. There was no current limit… the CPU just never uses more than 38W in my case. I can undervolt to -120mV, so I guess I’m lucky. The “throttling” I saw was just SpeedStep and SpeedSwitch trying to adjust the CPU freq to the optimal frequency, but for benchmarks optimal is as high as possible.
With this numbers I come very close to your benchmark numbers. My RAM score in PassMark is lower, but that’s just because I only have 8 GB of RAM (no 16GB model was available in my country 🙁 ) and PassMark for some reason thinks the amount of RAM should be included in the score.
My temps are amazing (stay below 85 C) and I’m really happy with the end result. I used 1cm wide heatpipes (available from Conrad in Switzerland/Germany) and if I would do it again I’d buy the longest/widest they have – I think the more surface area the better. For another time I’d probably try soldering the heatpipes together using low-temp solder, but with my CPU which undervolts so well, things are great as they are.
Thanks again for everything, Brad.
One crazy idea I had was to add to the coolable surface area by either
a) retrofitting a different laptop’s cooler. In this case, at the very least you could try and cram in a larger diameter fan in there. More airflow?
b) glueing and thermally joining a slice of a donor cooler’s finstack to the MBX fan enclosure? More cooling surface area?
I’m not sure whether trying this would yield better thermals, and both approaches require a little DIY elbow grease. Maybe an angle grinder to a cooler? Which is why I was hesitant, since buying a new fan (if you don’t have a donor) probably wouldn’t be cheap and a bit involved, but it seems that wouldn’t hold you two back 🙂
You can find pictures on reddit of the Huawei Matebook D’s seemingly more robust cooling solution. Whish they had scaled that thing down and crammed it right in. I’d take the weight vs performance/thermals trade off any day.
https://i.imgur.com/VQhVSK0.jpg
Haha that is pretty crazy. If you can find a fan that could work, I’ll buy it and try it.
Nice job!
You have any pictures of the end result you mind posting here?
Hi Brad,
First off, thank you for all of the documentation. Super helpful!
Second, could you tell me a bit more about the 3 separate HPF’s in APO? Unless each is addressing one individual speaker, I believe they would be completely redundant.
-Seth
It’s because I found that using 3 high-passes gives me a steeper roll-off and its shape is different than one high-pass with a sharper Q.
Wow this is a godsend, literally have spent forever trying to find a solution and this worked. Thank you!
Same here, thanks to the publisher!
Hi Brad. Could you do a Youtube video including a step by step manual for the hw and sw changes? I am a beginner in things like this.
Worked perfectly!
Also this approach brought in Hardware Check, which was missing before in Huawei’s PC-Manager after Windows 10 clean install.
Just a comment – many of these thermal pads are electrically conductive.Typically everything with graphite inside. This may cause EMI issues or completely ruin the system if applied directly on the motherboard. Consider adding warnings to the article for the young players which may not have a clue of what they are doing (like the guy above).
Just 0.02$ from an electronics and systems engineer who got tricked before 🙂
Thanks for the tip! The graphite sheet I’m recommending has insulation layer on both sides. But yeah I will add a warning about that.
Hey Brad,
do I loose my warranty if I fix the speaker-problem with your method by opening the notebook and so on?
Best wishes,
Toni
As far as I know, they can only tell the warranty status by the sticker on the SSD screw. If you leave everything visibly intact, they wouldn’t be able to tell. Removing the foam seal around the woofers is irreversible, so keep that risk in mind.
I’ve tried this several times. Does not work for me. Sensor was working fine with the default Win 10 Home, but when I wiped it to install Win 10 Pro – gone and I cannot get it to come back :/
The hardware itself is conflicted in device manager. Code 31, problem installing.
Good stuff. On a related note, I’m wondering if you’ve noticed a delay in “spinning up” the drivers to play the audio? I’m using the latest realtek driver. I tried mucking around with all the different drivers I could get working, and they all produced the same or worse results (sometimes including a loud crackle or click prior to playing the sound).
It seems like the computer turns off the hardware if it’s not being used for a few seconds. I’ve noticed if I have headphones plugged in, the white noise will stop playing a few moments after audio is produced. I haven’t had a lot of luck digging around online so I thought I’d ask an expert. It’s quite bothersome because the nature of some of my work involves playing a tone infrequently, and it is always delayed by about half a second or so.
On the yoga 2 pro, is that a thermal pad right beside the thermal paste? Can I replace that with normal thermal paste or does it need a pad?
Hey Brad – is this more efficient than the ones that they sell on Amazon?
If you’re talking about cooling power vs noise, I would say so.
Hey Brad, Will get my MXP i7 in 2 weeks, just wanted to maybe get some updates on how it’s doing. Im not sure about the first mod that brings the heat to the keyboard since the sheet is like 60 dols or so for 1 but most else i have already bought basically.
Quick update and thoughts would be awesome
Thanks.
Will also be using some Liquid metal on both GPU and CPU and we’ll see how that goes
Be careful about long-term corrosion.
It’s great, nothing’s fallen out of place, so performance is still superb. Next I’ll add thermal pads to the keyboard-side fan casing like Adrian did. I’ll also add some lubricant to the fan bearing to see if it gets a little quieter.
Also not much has been talked about the GPU performance, you said something about GPU boost 3.0 but some hard number would be cool and maybe to know if some nice overclocking can be done to gain 5-15 fps on games would be great.
Also according to a few youtubers and after months rechecks it seems Liquid Metal seems to not do that much, i just hope this “cooper” is actual cooper or i’ll make a real dent on my cooler.
I have good results using liquid metal. I believe proper application is the deciding factor on how much improvement you get. I have used liquid metal for a few years now with no issues. Just don’t appy it to aluminum and you will be fine.
Hey brad, got my MBXP and did all the mods with LIquid metal except the graphite, getting about 71c max altho i seem to be still thermal throttling due to the GPU(PL1) when gaming and my cores drop from the 3ks to max 1700 (10fps lose, very annoying)
Maybe you could give me some input and reference on your temps and how to keep that cpu up, was kind of underwhelmed with the temp gains tho. Also can’t post a main comment… always get directed to paypal
What is your CPU temp under combined GPU+CPU stress test?
I’ll look into the comment issue. It’s weird.
Using AIDA64 it gets to about 72 max or so, i uninstalled DFPT(some other way since i have windows Home) and the cpu got a more decent 2.2 sustained(10w throttle) even tho throttle stop would still say throttle past about 70.
I suppose you reinstalled Win10 fresh(and pro) did you use the Nvidia site drivers or the stock ones?
Also could i get your email so we could discuss more stuff about it, that would be great.
So good news and bad news.
Yesterday I decided to download TS 8.70.6 instead of the 8.70 I had and put it on program files instead of Downloads, and well that seemed to work wonders and I was able to fully control my cpu up and down.
So today I open up and try to change profile and whatnot, but TS will not save or obey anymore (even tho I deleted the settings my undervolt and changes on TPL won’t change even with TS off) so I effectively can’t change shit no more…
So right… scratch that… TS only saves and works at all when on A/C Power, even if that option isn’t placed on TS… interesting, so much for managing battery on TS.
Edit: Nevermind, so on battery to get TS working “Best Performance” setting must be enabled, now the problem is SS 255 does not keep that core settled at 8 multiplier and instead jumps 9/11
So Victory, After all the kinks I did a Passmark 4384, slightly higher 2/3D marks due to a 200+200 OC on GPU and 15202 Disk Mark due to Stock Toshiba. Overall pretty awesome, Temps tho if I do 2.2 say my temps are 71/73, 2.5 and higher I get 80s, can you confirm if you get better temps at full blow 3.5+ on say gaming. That would be appreciated to see if I need to check my mods and all that.
Only weird thing now is I can’t seem to be able to Modify my PPL0 on TPL anymore, not sure if it’s due to deleting DFPT, and I wish I had written down the stock values… if you by any chance have them that would be awesome
I looked at the fan, and it seems to be possible to install metal plates between upper and lower metal parts of fan (something like regular laptop heatsink),this will give more cooling surface and lead to better heat removal (with heatpipes mod, of course).
What’s your opinion, guys? Will this really help?
It requires some metalwork, but i think with proper soldering skills it will be ok.
I don’t think I have the skills for that but I’d like to see someone try it. But the heat transfer to the fins needs to be very good or else the obstruction of airflow will outweigh the benefits. Also, because the fan will be pushing already hot air through the fins, the fins won’t be doing that much heat exchange.
Soldering alloy, like usual POS-60 (40% Pb and 60% Sn) has good heat conductance, also if soldered properly, the layer of alloy is really thin.
But if fan pushes already hot air, so why adding thermal pipes to fan casing really help even with so small surface area of casing?
Adding heat pipes helps a lot because, in the original state, the heatsink of cpu+gpu is not thermally connected to the fan at all. The design idea seems to be to heat up the air inside the machine and then exhaust using the fan. The heat pipes make a much more direct connection between where the bulk of the heat is produced and the exhaust.
I thought about adding fins as you describe, but with all the mods done + a good undervolt, I don’t think it’s necessary anymore.
i thought about the fins too, but yea i guess hot air already, but more than that, the top metal part of the fan i guess could be exchanged for a custom cut slim cooper replacement, should be too hard to make a copy with thin cooper and should get much hotter to dissipate better
Well, it makes sense. I gonna find some thin copper plate in my workshop, and try it. Some patience + hand jigsaw it will be ok.
Also i have crazy idea of re-winding engine of fan to make it spin faster. Like some guys rewind their RC model engines (they are actually the same principle) to modify their properties. It is kinda special electronic magic, and will probably destroy my fan, but… ima crazy.
Or maybe replace the fan with one more powerful, but of course it must fit into laptop. If smb have idea what can i replace for, please, share
Awesome, do take some pictures of it to share. Remember to try to disassemble the fan top part with care to use it as a base to cut the new one, ideally with all the tabs too. About the bigger fan, I think more than a more powerful or faster fan, the problem might be when the fan actually kicks in and at what force, if that could be tweaked to make it 10c sooner or so it should be somewhat better overall, Brad put some clues for it on top but it’s all too cryptic for me, maybe with a bit more guidance we could give it a shoot.
I think when i do some CPU/GPU-heavy stuff fan spins at max rpm anyway.
In any case, first i have to receive package with cooling stuff, and finish my semester.
I ll share the results later
I checked link above. Dissassembling DSDT gave me nothing, so i go ahead probing registers. First i write python script, that log data from registers for about 5 mins, while i was loading processor with AIDA. Result was, well, complete mess. On OY axis we have value of register, on OX – number of iteration.
http://prntscr.com/lhrf0o
So i had to come up with some kind of heuristic filter to remove all that stuff. And my solution was throwing away all registers that more than 2/3 of time contain same value. The idea was when i load/unload processor, it is highly unlikely to have equal values in desired registers, because everything changes :))
Result looks like this and it a LOT cleaner
https://prnt.sc/lhrh8g
After removing plots that dont correlate with time when i on/off loading, i got something like this
http://prntscr.com/lhrlgj
And i really dont know what to do with it. Yellow line at the bottom seem to be temperature reading of cores, but i have no idea what to do with all other lines.. i need help here.
Looks like Huawei is doing their own fan control algorithm different from everything else. It doesn’t even seem directly correlated to CPU temperature, as the fan doesn’t spin up right away when the CPU gets to 95°C. Which is really dumb.
Ok then, I finally made some HW mods. First, I went ahead and make the fan’s upper casing out of copper instead of steel, like this
http://prntscr.com/m7cquu
Then I applied thermal pad to lower casing of the fan and directly to insulating film on the bottom of the motherboard right under charging unit and processor (In your mod, padding is instead of insulator, but I had not enough thermal padding to cover everything, so I thought it is not very good idea to leave some areas uninsulated because of possible short-circuits). After screwing MB inplace I added remaining 0.5mm padding between charging unit and radiator panel. After this I installed additional heat-pipes to my new copper fan casing. Now it is a lil bit colder under load (from 70+ C to 63-65 C), charge a lil bit faster, but I got some really weird issue, here is my powercfg report. https://drive.google.com/open?id=1k8XD35dWouOa_z8x9_sVg4mS_hRdfC3Q
As you can see, on 1/12/19 i fully charged laptop (56 Wh), between 12th and 15th laptop was disassembled with removed battery. On 15th I switch it on and discharge it to 36 Wh, then shutdown the PC. Next morning I plugged charger in, laptop was charged to 77% and then immediately say that battery is fully charged. Now my full charge capacity is only 42 Wh and it don’t want to charge above this level.
What can be possible problem here?
Can not edit anymore, so new post.
Upd
Problem was solved by calibrating battery controller : let it fully charge. I used AIDA64 to control parameters of charging (incoming wattage and battery voltage, cus I thought that battery controler was damaged during the process, and u know, overcharging li-ions sucks). When incoming wattage drops to about 1.3wh controller realized that the battery capacity was a lil bit larger than he expected, and now it is really charged to maximum.
Nice copper fan casing! How did you do it so accurately?
I thought about it too when I saw Brads Video about the heatpipe connection. What do you guys think of a graphite sheet instead of the two additional heatpipes plus of course a customized copper plate instead of the stock fan casing. I would not have to mess around with thermal glue and paste then and the conductivity should be equally good, since you can use a larger surface of the heatpipes.
Of course: Thank you very much for this blog Brad, awesome guide, thanks for your time.
Heat pipes are much more effective than graphite sheet mainly because heat pipes have much more cross-sectional area. The graphite sheets are just too thin to compete.
First I bought 1mm copper sheet on AliExpress, then etched it down to the thickness of the stock casing (I was just pulling it out of etching solution time to time and checking against the stock casing). For an etching process I used water solution of FeCl3 (ferrocloride, this stuff used to etch PCBs).
After that I flattened small tabs on the sides of the casing, and glued the etched copper sheet and the casing together. Then I removed bulk of the material with Dremel, and fine-tuned the remainings with small files. To make square holes in the tabs I just drilled regular holes and then squarified them with files. And then I just bent that tabs on the copper casing into initial shape, as it was on stock casing, and that was it!
It is not that hard if you don’t rush. Remove the material slowly and everything gonna be OK.
I’ve been thinking about this Yuriy, and I think you’re right. The fins would still be helpful. The air is maybe 50°C, but we can get the fins to maybe 75°C. As long as there is some difference in temperature, the fins can be effective! I’m currently investigating whether we can connect a different antenna (which can be bought or salvaged from another laptop), so that the original antenna can be removed to make space for a fin stack. Alternatively, I’m also working on milling a fan cover + fin stack combo. Another alternative is, I’ve bought from small fin stacks that can be trimmed to fit inside the fan, especially since the 2019 fan is bigger.
https://translate.googleusercontent.com/translate_c?depth=1&nv=1&rurl=translate.google.com&sl=auto&sp=nmt4&tl=en&u=https://consumer.huawei.com/cn/laptops/matebook-13/&xid=17259,15700023,15700124,15700149,15700186,15700191,15700201&usg=ALkJrhgr6A7A6VvAch1jf4d41IvYqZu8Hg
Huawei seems to have learned a few things!
Hi!
Will this void the guarantee? Also, is this a problem for all the matebooks or is it just some of them that has this problem?
This mod doesn’t involve breaking any warranty stickers. It’s reversible, so you’d just take the paper strip out and send it in. I’m not sure exactly how many of the MateBooks have this problem. I suspect all to slightly varying degrees. Some people just don’t notice it as a problem.
Hey I have a some small cracks in the screen of my matebook x pro. This prevents using touchscreen. I was wondering if you know a source for the part so I can fix it myself.
None that I know of, sorry. You’d have to call Huawei.
The Intel ME link doesnt seem to work. I couldnt find any Intel ME drivers on the huawei link
I just did this last night and it was easy. Just take your time when taking off the backplate since the clips could potentially break. Also I slid three pieces of paper in and that seemed to do the trick for me. Great read, great video. I’m glad I found a DIY’er for this laptop.
This looks great! I am using Aurdirvana, and have the Room Eq plugin installed, how do I generate the necessary file to load into the eq plugin?
Many thanks!
Hi Brad, thx for your guide. Can you please set a download link for your MXPro.txt EQ Correction Profile?
There doesn’t seem to be any.
Whoops, I forgot to hyperlink that. That’s for catching that! It’s up now.
Hey Brad are these profiles still active? I cannot seem to download them.
I am on 1.18 Bios and i constantly have this issue. Even when CPU is idle at 48-55 c charging gets stuck for hours and hours until i close the lid. It then charges, i think, normally…
Hello,
Thank you for the tip. Will definitely do that as my left speakers distort strongly. Do you know what torx screwdriver size I need to open the back? Also where did you find that white foam? Is it necessary? Thx and regards,
Quentin
Interesting to note, the new retina Macbook Air also followed this concept of the fan not directly cooling fins –
https://www.ifixit.com/Teardown/MacBook+Air+13-Inch+Retina+2018+Teardown/115201
Yes, Apple pulled a MateBook this time. They gave 0 fucks about thermal engineering this time and just made it easy for themselves by using 7W CPUs. Weak.
Thanks for this!
Could you please show us in a video how you’ve opened the back of your MXP?
I’m a bit worried that I break something inside, but that rattle drives me crazy and your fix seems the only solution for it.
Hope it’s not a big problem for you! 😉
Thx a lot!
Hello, what screwdriver did you use to take it apart? It looks like a hex screw but not sure what type/size?
Torx 5
Do you know which scientists the other model codes stand for? Leave your guess here.
Man I love u.
Just guessing…:
WT = William Thomson
PL = Max Planck
MRC = Marie Curie
Hey, thanks for alle your work. It’s unfortunately not working for me. I downloaded all the driver´s, and just installed them in the order. I did not uninstalled them before.
Could it be that im doing something wrong ? My matebook i5 / mx150 is running on Windows 10 ver. 1803. I don´t know what to do. Thanks a lot. 4 sure there will be support from my side.
can’t wait to have a newer version of the x pro, hope it’s KLV-WX9
This did not work for me.
Try using Equalizer 0.8. Didn’t have many problems with that. But that was on Windows 7. Not the garbage 10
I just can’t belive I bought this like a month or so ago an in a couple months a new possibly much better one is coming. I mean I love my MBXP, but COME ON just look at those Fans bro, it’s sick…
Fak! That works!
However, I don’t understand why it didn’t take any effect since the first time installing it worked. I messed up with Razor Surround software, installed and finally removed it then Equalizer APO no longer work.
This is not working with me 🙁 anyone else?
Version 10.0.17763 Build 17763
Thank You. I did things exactly as shown in tutorial and now it’s working perfectly! The sound of clicking is different, but getting rid of annoying rattling makes up for it 🙂
Do you think i would need to do any this if i just play games like league of legends, watch some movies, general browsing?
Love this website, I will do the physical cooling mod in future for sure. It is winter now, the keyboard still get pretty hot. Is there any option to add some heat insulation layer at keyboard backside to prevent the heat ?
Putting thermal insulation tape behind the keyboard would help a little, and the graphite sheets I wrote about help dissipate the keyboard hot spot.
Hey Brad, thanks for all the tips.
I wanted to ask about the gpu shim, I bought 0.5mm shims and they arrived a few days ago, I was going to do the mod, but i just realized that you updated the thickness to 0.3mm in your guide. Do you think i should get the 0.3mm shims or should I do it with the 0.5mm anyways?
Thanks again!
0.5mm still works fine although 0.3mm would be a little more efficient. I still have 0.5mm on mine.
thanks for the reply!
Just tried to follow instuctions but no luck 🙁
Hi,
Thanks for the post. Can we have the raw dataset you used for your plots?
Brad, I stumbled across your website here looking for ways to fix the trackpad. I tried the paper under the long skinny circuit board like you did, but it then made it very hard to press in the center of the trackpad. I tore the laptop cover back off and after looking at it for a bit, I found if you depress the trackpad and bend the small two metal ‘lips’ down towards the body of the laptop, it solves everything. My trackpad now works and sounds as perfect as it looks. I’d love to post a photo and show you what I’m talking about, but it really works great! Let me know and I can send it to you somehow.
Also, I bought some Kryonaut thermal compound and seems to be doing its job well. I actually don’t mind the sound of this fan, it’s more brown noise than white when running and I’m ok with that.. but I might try experimenting with the ITU soon.
Cheers and thanks for your awesome website!
– Joe
Yes, please elaborate on how you did that.
I might actually give the Matebook a second shot, if I got a chance to own it without the annoying rattling sound everytime I slightly touch the trackpad.
Ah, the trackpad’s spring tabs! Thanks for pointing that out!
Would be really interesting to know if they also did something to the Touchpad Rattle and if so, how to recognise the revised models.
I just returned my brand new Matebook x pro because of the touchpad rattle. It was so terrible, that the paper trick didnt fix it.
Depending on the image, interlace can actually result in a smaller file.
Is all that massive headpipery thermally connected to laptop lower part? It doesn’t seem to be, because when you insert additional heatpipes over stock one, it must ruin thermal connection due to additional space you’v introduced (about 1 mm).
If I’m correct here, why dont we connect it (i.e. using thermal padding) and allow to dump some heat to backside?
That would definitely help increase cooling capacity, especially when paired with a laptop cooling pad/stand, but I refrained from it to protect my thighs. Also, while it increases cooling capacity, it makes the original heatsink slightly less efficient by taking some of its surface area and disrupting the airflow over it.
works great, thnx.
Wow! what’s the touch screen IC they used?
I had troubles with the fingerprint as well recently. The guide did work in August 2018, but in December i couldn’t get the fingerprint scanner working again after another clean install. This time i had to manually update the Intel SGX driver in the Windows devide manager: In the device manager go to – System devices – right click on Intel SGX – and select “Update driver”. If something is installed the fingerprint sensor should work after a reboot.
Thanks
it works thanks
Hello.
Because I have not yet opened my Matebook Pro, but looking at what you did, I am considering it, I am not sure by looking at the photos how the GPU is connected to the heatsink. Reading your account I think you mention some kind of pad. Is that so? So, if I remove the top plate, I will have to get another pad, in case I cannot get a 0.3 copper pad? Can I use Coollaboratory Liquid MetalPad Thermal Grease Pad instead of the copper pad, or should I just use the THERMAL GRIZZLY KRYONAUT THERMAL GREASE over the GPU, or a THERMAL GRIZZLY MINUS PAD 8 THERMAL PAD 30X30X2.0MM ? I have not got much experience in this and I cannot get a 0.3mm Copper pad here, but 1.00mm and above. What would you suggest?
Without using any of the cooling but just by the Throttlestop software, I got my matebook x pro 8550U based, to hit around 4.200.
Thank you.
The thickness is critical. All those products are of a very different thickness and would not work. It has to be either 0.5mm thermal pad or 0.3mm/0.5mm copper shim.
This did not work for me either. When I first installed APO on Windows 10, it worked great but it suddenly stopped working for no apparent reason. Exactly the same problem on a different desktop with Windows 10 Pro (1803) 64-bit.
I’m in the same boat as you, Paul. 5-6 days ago it just wasn’t working anymore at all. I love this application. It is vital, in my opinion.
install the peace equalizer addon it will work with it
Tried this, didn’t work. Can crank the sliders up and down all I want but the audio stays the same. And alternative Eq APO install method breaks my audio.
I have the exact same problem! Do you have any solution yet?
i can’t use my fingerprint.I followed the guide but it doesnt work,in device manager the pc does not check the fingerprint,is an unkown device.How can i resolve?
Hi Brad,
really amazing piece of work over here, thanks mate!
Have you already had a look at controlling the fan speed with SW? I just tried SpeedFan but that didn’t recognize any fan.
This would be interesting for those who want to get their MXP quieter without HW-modding.
Thanks!
This has been a big help so far thank you!
But I have another problem: my hinge is really loose any suggestions to solve that issue?
I tightened the four hinge screws but did not helped much. Were you able to find a solution for the loose hinge?
I could not find the drivers in the website , any help ?
GG this was accurate (from CES)
Hahahaha
Same problem here :-(… got a Matebook D i5 and with a Windows Reinstall fingerprint doesn’t work… tried to follow the guide “clean” and also with PC Manager installed and unfortunately is does not work. Can’t find fingerprint driver though – but according to device manager it seems okay? It is recognized as Goodix Fingerprint SPI device with driver version 1.1.13.14… anyone with ideas 🙂 ?
I had the same problem for my Huawei Matebook D i5.
By downloading the same drives in that order also solved the problem for me.
I just downloaded the driver for my model at: https://consumer.huawei.com/en/support/laptops/matebook-d/
Even though all the drivers were up to date, you still need to download them again in the order. I could not find the update for the Chipset, so i just skipped it.
Hope it will help others.
This is happening to my MateBook D (14 Intel) (VLT-WX50) aswell, but I can’t seem to find the individual drivers? Anybody got a link or something?
My only question is, would you use liquid metal at all? why and why not.
I would also like to know if there is any reason to not apply liquid metal grease instead of the Grizzly thermal paste?
I don’t recommend it because there is a risk of getting it elsewhere on the board and corroding something. It adds quite a bit more risk to the operation — all of the other steps except the fan glue mod are low-risk. You’re welcome to try it, although I wouldn’t promote it to my general audience.
Thanks a lot, mate, I was so frustrated! How did you know this solution?
I read it on Huawei Chinese forum. I can’t find the original post anymore though.
thank you very much you save me
Well, Huawei have probably been annoyed by this themselves, and they have surely seen your page, as I have. It would have been a gesture of kindness from Huawei, had they saluted your corrective action, thus they would have stood out of the crowd of vendors that never do that. I hope Huawei read this comment. Let me add that the next model should offer a somewhat extended frequency response. The current speakers do not properly reproduce the keynote of a normal dark male voice. I exchanged my old Samsung ativ 9+ with this unit, and the Samsung goes MUCH deeper. Take a look at that machine, Huawei. Make it even better! And by all means, if you like audiobloomer.com demo, ask me to offer it for Huawei as a built-in!
Brad, thank you!! My Matebook X Pro finally feels premium without the rattling touch pad. Your “easy paper method” worked like a charm. The “overall best method” using aluminum foil beneath the metal tabs didn’t work for me.
Hey, thank You SO much! i thougt i´d go crazy.
I got the Matebook x, not the pro, but theses drivers for the pro worked for me.
Thank you!
Hi! I was wondering, would the laptop still work if I removed the battery and kept it plugged in? I’ve done it on older laptops in order to extend the life of the battery and it’s worked without any change in performance. What do you think?
Yes, it would work, I’ve tried it on this. But the charger already stops charging the battery once it’s full. It’s smart. So it’s not a problem to begin with. Not worth the inconvenience.
Ok, yes, I have the charging set to 40-70%, but isn’t the battery still going through discharge cycles, which shortens its lifespan? Furthermore, the heat degrades the battery even faster, no?
In terms of battery: I use the i5 model since one year and I have to say the change in battery life is VERY noticable. I use it heavily every day and get less than 4h when fully charged (it was 7-9h when I got it under the same conditions)… I would love to change the battery, can you recommend any compatible models?
This did not fix anything, instead, it made no audio come at all
KLV stand for Kelvin, according to the FCC pictures
Nice, thank you!
There is another Matebook model mysteriously codenamed KPR (Kopernikus?) on the Bluetooth certification website:
https://launchstudio.bluetooth.com/ListingDetails/3248
Published on 2019-01-29 as both Huawei Matebook and Honor Magicbook:
KPR-W09
KPR-W19
KPR-W29
KPR-W39
What could it be? New Matebook X non-Pro or Matebook D 15′?
Or maybe a new Matebook D 14′? – as that’s the only variant currently sold under the Honor brand: http://www.honor.cn/productsearch/tablets/
Personally I’m hoping for a premium Matebook D 14′ refresh with new AMD 3000 series APU.
I would guess it’s new MateBook D with 3rd-gen Ryzen as well, since the current Ryzen MateBook D is KPL (Kepler). The ‘R’ in ‘KPR’ probably stands for ‘revision’ or something like that in the same way that the 2019 MateBook X Pro turned out to be codenamed ‘MACHR’.
KPR has now appeared on fcc.io if you want to check it out: https://fccid.io/QISKPR-WX9
Thanks, I didn’t consider ‘R’ could stand for ‘revised’.
Anyway, it’s certain now that KPR are Ryzen-based machines.
Energy certification organization even specifies KPR-W29 CPU as ‘Ryzen 7 with 2.3 GHz base clock’ :
https://www.energystar.gov/productfinder/product/certified-computers/details/2333929
Base clock speed points at 3700U APU, since 3750H is too power-hungry for a slim notebook.
Also specified is 8GB of RAM, W39 will probably get 16GB.
And I guess W09 and W19 are also 8GB but with 3500U CPU.
There again seems to be a camera drainage hole (centered towards the back), which suggests to me, they kept the hidden camera. For those wondering, where this is coming from: There is exactly sth like this on the current MXP which is descriped as the camera drainage hole in the user manual. In case you drop water on the keyboard, it drains away from camera to the table.
Thank you for that info! I will update the post.
brad could you please make a video tutorial
With only one USB-C port will it still be possible to charge the device while using an eGpu or an external Monitor via Thunderbold?
Any way to get replacement screws, I’m missing some screws from the heatsink.
Profile work at startup 😉
Apparently only a select few can BYOD (Android or iPhone). Tried to follow your advise and got this message: “Unfortunately, you’re not eligible to bring your iPhone right now. Right now, we’re limiting the amount of customers who can order SIM cards.” Of course after that verbal smackdown, they provided a link to buy and set up a NEW phone. Damn crooks.
Have you tried going to the store? You may be able to do it there.
Thanks. Actually, you need to make sure that you log in with the primary account to be able to order the SIM. Finally figured that out.
Great to hear! Thanks for the tip.
So they’re not “crooks” then. You just didn’t know what you were doing. Maybe you need to do your homework before calling people crooks next time?
Lol. I called a company crooks not a “people” (pay closer attention my friend). In many ways they are crooks, just not in this instance.
You need to go into a store – I think they are limiting online SIMs for some reason
Ah, didn’t see the replies until after I made the comment – you can disregard
I was wondering on the thickness of the oem thermal pads in the system.
I just purchased the matebook pro x i7/16gb/mx150 version and am planning on changing out the thermal paste and pads as I change the ssd.
Are the mx150 pads 0.5mm? How about any others? Mainly I plan to undervolt and run 2 power plans with throttlestop to keep heat down and battery life up.
Thanks. This worked!
Thanks for the great input. I will modify my matebook according to your suggestions. Is it possible to use Thermal Conductive Double Side Adhesive Tape like this one: https://www.amazon.com/10mmX25M-Conductive-Adhesive-Heatsink-Kaifa/dp/B01MZ3T26C/ref=sr_1_2
instead of thermal paste and glue for the heatpipes for instance?
Or would that affect thermal properties?
It would be considerably worse because of its worse material and greater thickness.
Just completed the mod and everything came out great! A massive improvement.
I was curious to see if anyone had tuned the GPU after performing the mod. My understanding is that the version of MX150 in MXP is downrated. Is it possible to boost the performance now that the cooling has been upgraded? What program is best for tuning a GPU?
Hi John. Did you apply all the steps as Brad shows? Could you please share with us how much improvement have you got. E.g. what is your stable CPU power and the corresponding CPU temps now? 35W under 90C?
I believe you can use MSI Afterburner.
John, what performance are you getting right now? Will you run some benches please.
Worked great for me right now after weeks looking for a solution but to no avail….so, thank you so much.
This fixed it for me! Thanks so much!
Do you have a tutorial how to replace the LCD?
This would be good to see, I broke my screen and need to buy a replacement. Yasin, did you buy a replacement?
I e-mailed him and he said that he don’t have a video of it, unfortunately. But he told me that I can check the repair video’s of the Macbook’s proberly..
And I did not buy a LCD. I found one on aliepress for around 260$, at the Huawei store here in the Netherlands they replace it for 439euro. I think I will not take the chance of fucking it up and bring it to the official repair centre.. :p
what is his email?
I read all comments. How can I help?
This worked for me!!! Thank you so, so much. This was really starting to get frustrating. My headset lacks a little punch in the bass department, so I was upset that the software wasn’t working initially. Thanks again!
This didn’t work for me, but updating to the latest windows release did (build 4019 I think). When I booted in the newest version fingerprint worked and keyboard didn’t, but I disabled fingerprint, rebooted, then reenabled it and everything worked.
Hi Brad,
Thanks for your posts and tutorials, they are really great!
There is something I’d like to ask you: when my Matebook X Pro is connected to the power, I can feel a “soft” but consistent and continuous vibration if I rub my hands on it. Well, of course the laptop is not actually vibrating, I think they are small electroshocks due to a grounding/isolation problem.
I’m in Italy, the power adapter supplied with the pc has only 2 prongs, so there’s no grounding at all (same as every smartphone and laptops, etc.).
Do you have the same problem?
Do you have any ideas/suggestions?
Thanks in advance!
Luca
I have a technical question about PS’s compression. How effective is this compression? Is it better than something like XNconvert for example? That program offers 9 levels of compression and its free. I’m want to assume PS has as good or better compression than some of these free alternatives. Can anyone explain?
I think the best way to know is to test it out. I’ve used PNGGauntlet and Photoshop compresses PNGs close to equally and often a bit smaller.
So with the 2019 verison coming and that new fan, I saw the picture of the inside and everything looks exactly the same except the fan is a bit larger taking up all the space.
I would love to be able to buy that fan and just strap it to my MBXP, wonder if that’s posible and where I could get it from.
Hi Brad, thanks for the mention of my fan idea in the guide. I have successfully applied similar procedures to other laptops suffering from too much heat such as a MBP 2015 and now the LG Gram17.
When the 1809 windows update hit I ran into troubles with my Matebook X Pro. It could not complete the update completely and I ended up with a botched system and had to reinstall windows. Is it maybe possible those DPTF registry blocks block larger windows updates? Maybe there was another cause, but it might be advisable to go back to stock config before doing the big windows updates.
I’m glad it’s now possible to lift the tdp limits with throttlestop only. However I can’t seem to figure out how to get all cores to 4.0. I know it worked in the past, but now everything I do leads to 3.7 GHz on all cores when the load is high. I think I am missing an important step. Do you remember what enabled you to make the higher multi-core turbo limits work?
Hey Adrian, I’ve never had problems updating Windows with the registry edits applied. I’ve been on 1809 for a very long time.
I don’t think I ever achieved 4.0GHz on all cores simultaneously under load. That shouldn’t be possible on a non-K processor. Depending which core’s frequency you’re monitoring, you may see one or two cores shoot up to 4.0GHz, but all other cores would have to remain lower.
It worked, thank you so much!
I was wondering what kind of performance improvements I can expect if I were only to do the throttlestop undervolt & adding the heatpipes? To me these seem like the easiest mods to do. Do you have any benchmark results of just those mods?
No but the heatpipes should provide about 8W more cooling capacity which is about 50% increase over stock.
Hi Brad. Firstly your step by step guide is excellent.
My objective is not to enhance performance but to simply make the matebook bit more comfortable to use. I find the keyboard gets too hot to the point where I can’t even rest my fingertips on the keyboard.
Therefore:
1) would your keyboard side Cooling instructions help with this?
2) if yes, and to save time and money, could I simply apply 0.5mm thermal pad across the whole backside of the motherboard? Would that be effective enough to reduce keyboard surface temperatures? Or would you still advise your method of a mixture of 1mm and 0.5mm
3) any tips of eliminating coil whine noise?
Thank you
Hi Rob, I’ve put up my answers to your first two questions on the new FAQ section. There is no way to eliminate coil whine noise unless you want to replace the inductors on the motherboard or put glue over them.
Thank you. Going through the FAQ and mod guide now. Will have some follow up questions at a later point as I formulate a plan.
A challenge i face is sourcing materials here in the UK. I can’t seem to find the Panasonic graphite sheets here. Also, by any chance do you have a YouTube video handy on the graphite sheet install ? 🙂
Never got to make graphite sheet video, sorry
I did this twice already and nothing. Windows Hello keeps saying that my device isn’t compatible.
It’s probably because you’re using some Windows 10 Pro / Enterprise edition, which has some Group Policies that may restrict the use of Biometric functions on your laptop. Also, you may have to manually activate the “Biometric support” in the Windows “services” of your Operating System. I had the same problem too, then I did it (after searching Google), and it works like a charm now! Good luck mate 🙂
I intalled NoDPTF.reg and I want to revert it how can I do it. I am trying to intall the driver DPTF but I cannot since I installed the NoDPTF.reg Thanks for your help
Delete HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SOFTWARE\Policies\Microsoft\Windows\DeviceInstall\Restrictions in Registry Editor.
Hey, I can’t seem to find “DeviceInstall” under Windows. Thank you for your help!
Do I need to delete the whole folder? or just the Restrictions?
Deleting the Restrictions folder and deleting the items in that folder shouldn’t be any different unless you are trying to suppress any other non-DPTF devices.
What if I want to reinstall the DPTF driver? where can I find the change in the registry?
Hi Brad,
Awesome methods for boosting the performance! I followed some software tweak and they worked really well.
I’m planning to modify the hardware next, and do you recommend applying liquid metal for this PC for cooling?
cant wait to test this mod out
No, it’s risky and not that much better than good conventional paste because of the not-so-perfect contact between the chip and the base plate.
Thanks a lot from south of france, works for me!!!
I was so stupid to waste some hours to find issues in french language befor realize that maybe only 3% of informations are in french on web, thanks again!!
Haha, maybe I should start writing in French too
Great guide and work 🙂
Any thoughts of drilling ventilation holes in the bottom plate?
The heatsink needs good airflow over it to work well. I think holes would mess up that airflow. But it would be interesting to try.
Hi Brad, Nice method for stopping the rattle. Another big issue that bother me is the awful palm rejection of the MXP. The pointer is actually moving around as I type these words down I’m not sure whether it just me that encounter this or it’s a universal problem, but anyway, is there any software tweaks that could fix this issue? Thank you a lot.
It just didn’t work for me.
Png are imported in Photoshop with a white background
Hi Brad,
you could also fix the rattling by eliminating the root cause. The route cause is the gab between the switch and the touchpad itself. This gap is created by the spring, which is pushing the touchpad up against its endstops. The endstops are those little metal hooks between the little pcb and the edge of the frame. I bend them downwards using a little srewdriver just enough to eliminate the gab. Until now it works 🙂
I hope this helps 🙂
Hi Brad, I can’t thank you enough for all the help you’ve been providing with the MXP. You helped me (and a lot of others) turn it into such a great laptop.
You mentioned that your REW file has a pre-modification measurement for those who haven’t done the sponge mod. Is this Stock Desk? How can I get an EQ correction profile .txt file from it? Also is the difference between pre- and post-modification significant or is it ok to not worry about it?
Thanks in advance 🙂
Thanks for pointing this out! I just made an update; please check the top of this article.
Perfect, thanks.
Edit: The values for the stock eq seem too high, especially ~100-200 Hz. Is there really that big of a difference between stock and modified? Here are the curves for reference.
Stock: https://i.imgur.com/kjEy5me.png
Modified: https://i.imgur.com/WqPEjAC.png
Hi Brad, truly appreciate your help and all and you taking the time to create this guide.
I did almost everything on this guide apart from the graphite sheets as the company sent me some without the adhesive layer.
Im starting to think i have caused major damage to my Matebook as the loading circle appears for a second then disappers for two seconds and this happens continually on loop indefinitely .. apart from this my wifi keeps disconnecting and reconnecting over and over again. is there any way i can pay you to fix this for me .. theres no one willing to work on this laptop for me and i truly hope you can help as ill be more than happy to pay for your time .. please let me know if this is a possibility and provide me with some contact details where we can proceed on this .. thanks a million
Where is video on adding graphite sheets?
I can’t find ‘Intel dynamic platform and thermal framework”. I’m using Windows LTSC, anyone know if LTSC even incudes DPTF?
Hi Brad，
I’ve applied the permanent method and used for a while, but recently the trackpad has been making a strange sharp noise if I click one side of it, also, I found that a small piece of stuff has stuck between the metal plate and the green PCB of the trackpad, so is there a way that could have the touchpad removed and reinstalled? Thanks a lot.
I would try to pick the debris out directly instead. From the inside, push outward on the trackpad to free the piece.
The donate button brings me to my PayPal home page, not donating
Hi Brad,
Have you ever encountered the limit “EDP other” when using the throttlestop? Mine has constantly reported this issue when running the TS bench, and the power limit seemed to be fixed at 25W, no matter how I change the setting in TPL. Thanks.
Sorry for the late reply, but try increasing the PP0 Current Limit in the TPL menu.
Hey Brad. Just thought I’d take the time to show some appreciation here. I must have been the 1 person who didn’t have any MBxP touchpad rattle at all, but every single other aspect of this laptop is now better because of you.
Thanks.
You’re very welcome Simon! I appreciate the support. Does your trackpad have a little give when you gently press down on it? Are you able to slightly depress it before it actually clicks, or does it not budge at all?
I can’t make the trackpad move without a click resulting. It’s proper solid.
Now that I’ve very carefully inspected it, I can notice a very small left right tilt, but it’s so tiny, you’d never know.
I know a guy who has proper trackpad rattle and he asked me how I had fixed mine xD
I’m playing with the OC right now…but gaming at 4k (on lowest settings) seems like a bit of a stretch for the MX150….
So will this work on a one plus phone (particularly the one plus 7 coming out)
I think it will. I will buy a OnePlus 7 Pro on Friday and try my Xfinity SIM in it.
Please keep us posted on this! I also want a OnePlus 7 Pro. I currently have a fully paid off iPhone 7 Plus already on Xfinity…that I’d love to pop the Sim card out of and use on the OnePlus.
did it work ?
SMS is not working. The APN settings are locked. When I use the Activities trick to access the + button, the process force-closes.
I have a 6T. I didn’t know any of this so I used to have an iPhone with Xfinity mobile and when I bought the one plus I just switched SIM cards. It worked exept for the fact that I don’t receive text msgs sms. I can send them but I can’t receive them. I initially thought it was the imsg from apple that is causing the problem but then I found out it’s the fact that they don’t support outside Android devices. People at the Xfinity store had no idea what a one plus is
texting is pretty important to me but i would sacrifice that if everything else worked
Thank you, super helpful!
This worked for me on a G7 7590, thank you so much!
work fine in matebook x pro 2018
Curious if anyone knows the thickness of this fan? thinking about building a new top plate with integrated heat sink fins inside the casing.
Me too! It’s about 3.5mm of height inside.
Hi Brad,
Thanks for this guide, was able to open my matebook easily.
I would appreciate if you can provide some advise, even just a guess on what you think is the problem with my laptop.
It turns on but no display on screen, and the laptop will automatically shut itself off after 20 seconds. and Im not sure where to start diagnosing
You can see it here on this video https://youtu.be/b5ht7bsNjhg
What’s the last thing you did before this happened?
That Im not really sure what happened.
I was out on holiday and my sister was using the laptop, when I return home, my matebook has a small crack on the bottom left side of the screen and it doesn’t display anything when I power it on. my sister said she dropped it, but who knows what else had happened. Im ready to buy another screen replacement, but I wanted to make sure that its the screen the is the problem. Im doing some test but I can’t verify if the screen is actually the problem, I tried connecting the laptop to external monitor using usb-c to hdmi connector and still doesn’t display anything when I turn it on, and will automatically turn off 20 seconds after turning it on. I was poking on some dots (right after turning it on) near the screen connector on the board to check some voltages and I can see 3.2V, 5V and 29V in there. but I don’t know if those voltages actually goes to the screen, maybe you can give some advise on what other test I can do to verify what is the actual problem.
Thanks
Hi, thanks for the great teardowns and handy tips! I’ve also managed to revive the fingerprint sensor on my Matebook D 14 thanks to your software re-install order guide.
Have you considered doing a tear down / upgrade guide on the Intel-chipped Matebook D 14″? I have one with an MX150, I added a bigger SSD but that’s as far as I’ve gone with it.
Glad it helped! Basically all my teardowns are of my own devices. Unfortunately I don’t have a MateBook D.
Hey Brad, thanks so much for all your work tearing down and modding these Matebooks. I own one and followed many of your guides to mod mine. I heard from your video that you broke your old matebook X Pro, do you still have it? I’d like to buy the screen from you since mine is cracked. Let me know thanks.
I had set throttlestop to run automatically at log in before undercoating. Now whenever I log in I get BSOD bc it’s applying unstable undervolt settings automatically. Is there any way to fix this? I just need to kill the process before it stars but I can’t log in to do so as I only have a few seconds before it freezes.
*fixed it* *phew* Thanks for the guides!
Hey Brad, pretty excited to learn if there was any cooling gain from using a copper fan cover.
Yeah, Im lookin forward to know. I made this mod myself (well, with more primitive tooling and a lot of hand-filing and hand-sanding) but I didn’t test before and after, so I really don’t know is there any performance gain.
Hi Brad：
I’d like to know what’s the function of the original isolation sheeting in the backside of the motherboard, and is it safe to reinstall the board without it? I did the keyboard side Collings but found out that it wasn’t quite effective, and the keyboard wasn’t functioning either, so I might need to remove the thermal pad. But I’m a little worry about running the machine without the isolation layer, so I wanna to confirm this. Thanks.
The sheet on the motherboard backside is for electromagnetic interference shielding. It’s practically insignificant; in fact the 2019 X Pro removed it.
Make sure the keyboard ribbon cable is connected properly.
Hey Brad, for the copper shims you linked on Amazon they seem to be much smaller then the one you’re using on your videos. Do you have the dimensions for the ones you used?
Wow, thanks for catching that! I didn’t notice mine were 20mm instead of 15mm. Looks like I linked the wrong one. Fixed it now. Shouldn’t be much of a difference anyway because the GPU die is much smaller than both.
GREAT! Works fine! Thank you so much. ED
hello i heard that you did a WDTVLive hack… well i have 2 question, what is in side of one of these devices, what are the real specs… it must have some kind of decent processor to be able to run movies. Second can i change the firmware to make a simple server that can run simple programs, say like a java or python code?
Thanks man
Remake Windows Login PIN!
Hi, forgive my ingorance…
Would you please explain how you update each of the drivers?
In device manager I don’t see anything called Chipset. And when I download the drivers from Huawei site they are in .asc format which I don’t know what to do with.
I would really appreciate it thank you!!!
Beside the ASC file there should be an EXE or ZIP that you can open.
thank you, got it!! you are a lifesaver
Hi, i don’t understand, when i unzip the download, i have only one .exe (and one asc file) but not each drivers separately. Thank you
what does msi afterburner overclocking scanner confidence level is 0% when completed brad?
is it good or bad?
0% confidence means something is wrong. Try resetting to default clocks and running the scanner again.
It’s work for me but iI had to find each drivers separately elsewhere, here are the links:
IntelChipset > “MateBook_X_Pro_Chipset” : https://consumer-tkb.huawei.com/tkbapp/downloadWebsiteService?websiteId=1010749
Others > “MateBook_X_Pro_SerialIO” : https://consumer-tkb.huawei.com/tkbapp/downloadWebsiteService?websiteId=1010771
Others > “MateBook_X_Pro_ME” : https://consumer-tkb.huawei.com/tkbapp/downloadWebsiteService?websiteId=1010770
Security > “MateBook_X_Pro_SGX” : https://consumer-tkb.huawei.com/tkbapp/downloadWebsiteService?websiteId=1010773
Fingerprint > “MateBook_X_Pro_Fingerprint” : https://consumer-tkb.huawei.com/tkbapp/downloadWebsiteService?websiteId=962516
I added the following id on my Asus K501LX:
“8”=”PCI\\VEN_8086&DEV_1603&CC_1180″
@Brad331 : do you think I can go with the copper shims and thermal paste update without thermal glue?
cheers!
PS: great website mate!
EDIT: just saw that you already replied to a similar question.
This post just helped me a lot
Is using noDPTF.reg supposed to add Unknown Device drivers under Device Manager after restart?
Yes
hi just wondering what this actually does to the system, why do unknown devices show up?
Thank you so much, it worked wonders after I’ve tried almost everything on the net.thank you so much
I repasted and put thermal pads on different parts of the heatsink but didn’t do the keyboard side mods for the VRM, unfortunately. What should I be setting my Turbo Boost Long Power Max to? With 30 my computer occasionally crashes while playing CSGO
Find a power limit that doesn’t crash. Maybe 24W
Hi Brad
I unfortunately spilt some baby oil on the keyboard of my Matebook X Pro. It would boot up as the SSD couldn’t be found. However I fixed that using rubbing alcohol. But now some keys aren’t working x,c,v,m and ; plus ‘
A couple more wern’t going but I fixed those using the alcohol.
Any suggestions? And if I need new keyboard where do I get it from as I have looked on the net and can’t find anywhere.
Plus just now after my second reassembly, the main spkrs stopped going. Only the small tweeters work. Headphones go ok still.
Plus plus also now my touch pad stopped too!!!!
I must of done something reconnecting things up??
Cheers
Des
New Zealand
Yikes. The tweeters and woofers for each side are connected via shared connectors. I had actually sold my old MateBook’s touchpad to someone who spilled on it. Check the white ribbon cables going off of it and the motherboard but it might be liquid-damaged.
Thanks, Brad! Your tip worked for me. In fact, you did what Huawei’s ‘support’ could not do after an hour of trying. Thanks again – from London, UK.
HI Brad, i have a Artic Silver Quick Cure Silver Epoxy (2parts) can i use this for the 0.3mm copper shim instead of kyronaut and then thermal glue.
Link:
https://www.amazon.com/Arctic-Silver-Premium-Adhesive-ASTA-7G/dp/B0087X7262
http://www.arcticsilver.com/arctic_silver_thermal_adhesive.htm
I actually wrongly purchased it as i thought it was a normal thermal glue ( like yours) but its meant to put directly onto the shim and not the border? or could i use this silver epoxy as how u used the thermal glue?
I also have kyronaut.
Sure, it looks fine to me, but it might be slightly harder to remove just in case something goes wrong. I recommend using thermal paste for the shim’s face because it is more thermally conductive.
Hey Brad. Absolutely awesome website and your explanations are super detailed and clear. Have you ever run across a MBxP keyboard where the left control key creaks when you press it down? Maybe a clearance issue of some sort?
Thanks in advance for your help!
Is it just me or is the shim linked in the shopping list a 1.2mm thick shim? Pretty sure that is way too thick based on the guide.
This worked for me on windows 10 thanks
Thank you very much, It worked for me 🙂
Thank you so much! It worked for me on HP 14 Laptop! 🙂